Pretty in pink
It’s always blush hour in Miami, where Art Deco style, beaches and a footie icon reign, says Mikael Mckenzie
Messi mania is gripping Miami everywhere you look. When David Beckham signed the Argentine football superstar to his MLS franchise Inter Miami earlier this year, locals went wild with joy.
Now you’ll struggle to walk down a street without seeing someone sporting a bubblegum-pink jersey with “Messi 10” on the back.
The colour is a nod to the pastel painted Art Deco architecture that has defined Miami since the 1930s.
And with its palm trees and neon lights, the cool kid of south Florida has, over the years, drawn the likes of Sylvester Stallone, Enrique Iglesias and Ricky Martin to its blush-hued shores. I kicked off my trip staying at the iconic National Hotel right on South Beach.
Built in 1939, it has that fabulous Art Deco look, but the venue has been completely modernised inside while retaining old-school touches such as radios in the rooms and dial-up phones on the walls.
It takes less than two minutes to walk from my room to the beach, where the sunrise lights the sky coral pink and locals go for an early morning jog.
When the neighbourhood is just waking up, it’s a wonderfully peaceful time to take in its white sands and dazzling shoreline. Before heading out I tuck into a three-egg omelette with side salad on the garden terrace at the hotel’s Mareva 1939 restaurant. My Cabana Room, with its studded leather seating and black and white furniture, has views over the lush tropical pool area. The hotel also boasts a magnificent 205ft infinity pool – the biggest in Miami. A 10-minute stroll away is the Art Deco District where you can take
a walking tour put on by friendly volunteers at the Miami Design Preservation League.
They depart from the Art Deco Welcome Center on Ocean Drive and stop at all key landmarks such as the Breakwater Hotel and Versace Mansion.
On the tour you’ll discover how the colour scheme has developed over the years, be shown the unique features on buildings, like windows that have eyebrows, and learn why rooftop pools are hidden from the front.
If you need to refuel after all that sightseeing, there are plenty of bars and restaurants on Ocean Drive.
I took a pit stop at Little Havana to shelter from the occasional subtropical downpour, but I didn’t really need that excuse to tuck into some Cuban pulled beef and a passion fruit mojito.
In the evening I headed to Espanola Way, a picturesque pedestrianised street lined with fairy lights.
The authentic Italian pasta dishes and seafood at Mercato Della Pescheria are served in super-stylish surroundings. Make sure to leave room for the creme brulee – the mascarpone is whipped fresh by the waiter at the table.
I then headed inland for the remainder of my trip and stayed at YOTEL, a new value-end abode in the heart of downtown. Having stayed at YOTELS in the UK I was expecting a very budget-friendly feel, however this was anything but.
A newly renovated pool and bar up on the 12th floor has you feeling like you are at one of Miami’s top locations.
I had a premier queen room and was impressed with all the mod cons. A push-button turns on the shower, and the lights are activated through a touchscreen control, with a colour slider offering a range of options to give the room a personalised setting.
The hotel is close to Bayside Marketplace, which offers a plethora of souvenir shops, retail outlets, bars and restaurants, with classics such as Victoria’s Secret and Bubba Gump Shrimp Co.
Many boats dock here and there are options to explore the city by water. I took the Thriller speedboat tour.
This 45-minute experience whisked us around Miami at high speeds with the knowledgeable host explaining the area and slowing down as we passed
‘‘
Will Smith emerged from his home to wave at tourists sailing past
many private islands and celebrity mansions.
Earlier in the day Will Smith emerged from his home and waved at those sailing past, apparently.
The Thriller boat will set you back $45, but you can travel the city for free on the Metromover, a monorail that is Miami’s equivalent to the London Underground.
There is a stop directly across the road from YOTEL and I used it to visit the Frost Science Museum. Entrance is $30 for adults and $23 for children – and hours of fun can be had here.
The most prominent feature is an aquarium that spans three f loors.
There are many games and creative interactive features that children will love, such as building and firing paper planes on a purpose-built runway.
After losing a flight battle to an eight-year-old, I headed to Wynwood Walls to rethink my folding strategy and take in the beautiful street art that gives this area its unique glow.
One of the first murals upon arriving at Wynwood is a “Welcome to Miami” painting of Lionel Messi – one of three that stand over the city.
Admission is $12 for adults and children go free. You can even try your hand at spray-painting on a section of the wall, too, all included in the ticket price.
If you fancy another treat afterwards then a trip to Doya restaurant is a must. The Michelin Guide-recommended Greek and Turkish Meze is regularly frequented by Max Verstappen, most recently to celebrate his Miami Grand Prix victory in May.
I’m still dreaming about the Doya Kebab, which was hands down the best wood-charred lamb pitta I’ve ever eaten.
Another district of the city to properly explore is Little Havana. I joined a two-and-a-half-hour walking tour and learned so much about the history of Cubans flocking to Miami.
There is so much character on Calle Ocho (Eighth Street), from the chickens and roosters that roam freely to movie crews filming outside the infamous Ball & Chain restaurant, once frequented by Al Capone.
The tour takes you to all the key landmarks and has stops for Cuban coffee, a Cuban sandwich, an empanada (a crescent-shaped savoury pasty), churros and a mojito.
For fans of shopping and late-night bars and restaurants, Brickell City Centre – a large mixed-use complex – is the spot. At Marabu on the fourth floor, they dish up all sorts of Cuban cuisine and the pork served on a coal fire at the table was bursting with smoky flavour.
If you’re planning a longer trip, check out the new Brightline train that runs directly to Orlando.
The high-speed, privately-owned railway takes just three-and-a-half hours to complete the journey – and there’s a plan to extend the service to the Walt Disney World Resort.
But with its palm trees, balmy breeze, style and glitz, Miami more than lives up to its moniker of the Magic City. Or you could just swoop in for some Messi-spotting!