Isle be there
this so soon was certainly a win.
Nicknamed “island of eternal spring”, Madeira is a tonic in itself.
It’s a Portuguese outpost but is closer to Africa than Europe.
Its northern side felt like remote parts of Vietnam, with an abundance of tropical foliage, banana trees and dramatic cliffs.
It boasts some of the most fertile soil in the world due to being a volcanic island, and this is evident in its rainbow of wild and exotic flowers, lush forests and terraces of sugar canes and laurel trees.
The following day we explored the island’s rugged north on an off-roading Jeep tour.
As our driver, Pedro, manoeuvred the vehicle through slippery mud tracks that were cut off from the world to everyone but mountain bikers or 4x4 drivers, he pointed to the island’s breathtaking volcanic scenery, proudly telling us “it’s 50 shades of green”.
He knew the island inside out and during our half-day tour showed us everything from a traditional thatchedroof Santana house to the island’s last mill, where residents aged 80-plus still grind wheat.
He also knew the most picturesque view points, where we could catch our breath from the pulse-raising ride while taking in the scenery.
“You experience four seasons in one day and five continents in one island,” Pedro said.
And he wasn’t wrong; the mist clinging to the island’s cliffs cleared by lunchtime, and we basked in bright sunshine all afternoon.
Despite being October, temperatures were still in the high 20s. It rarely dips below 19C, due to the island’s microclimate, making it the perfect place for a spot of winter sun.
While Madeira’s south coast is bustling with grand hotels and Airbnbs, the sparsely populated north is still relatively undiscovered by tourists. You could walk all day along the island’s famous levada trails without seeing another soul.
We ate at Quinta do Furao’s beautiful dining room with ocean views, enjoying a traditional meal of espetada – a meat skewer. This was rounded off with a glass of Madeira’s famous Poncha – a summer cocktail made from sugar cane, orange or lemon juice, honey and rum.
That night we slept in the newlylaunched upscale villas of the Terrabona Nature & Vineyards.
The lush surroundings of the Laurissilva forest, a UNESCO world natural heritage site, gave a supremely restful feel. Each villa is cleverly
positioned so there is no intrusion from other guests, allowing a sense of solitude.
At night, the only other light comes from the stars, and the only sound comes from the surrounding wildlife.
Breakfast is left inside your fridge, with fresh bread delivered outside your door every morning.
Terrabona’s owners, a family whose dream was to open up the north to tourists, have thought of everything, including a pillow menu and the option to pick fresh tea leaves from outside your villa.
The retreat also has a sleek infinity pool positioned in the cliff face among the resort’s vineyards.
The island’s handsome capital of Funchal is definitely worth a visit to see its paved squares, historic churches and botanical gardens.
Set in a natural amphitheatre by the sea, squeezed between cliffs and soaring mountains, it’s also great for a drink, a meal and a stroll.
In the evening live jazz drifts out of music venues, fairy lights illuminate the lanes and there’s a laid-back buzz about the place.
Tucked away down one of Funchal’s many beautiful lanes is Akua, where award-winning chef Julio Pereira specialises in serving up Madeira’s local produce with creative flair.
Almost everything is either grown on the island or caught in the waters that surround it. For my starter, I had soft beetroot, drizzled with a tangy sauce, followed by pumpkin flaked with coconut and nuts. They also serve fabulous seafood with rare treats such as tuna sausages.
Islanders are very proud of their home-grown superstar footballer, Cristiano Ronaldo. A statue of the former Manchester United player welcomes guests at the airport.
He even has his own hotel in the capital, Pestana CR7, which has a fabulous pink-coloured rooftop pool.
Locals say everyone knows everyone else in Madeira, which means you can’t go far without meeting someone with a story to share about Ronaldo, despite the star leaving for the mainland at the age of 11.
We also stayed at Castanheiro Boutique Hotel, which has a sunroof infinity pool overlooking the bay and plenty of loungers – perfect for people who want to sleep or relax in the sunshine.
There is also a spa with a powerful steam room and turquoise bathwaters that moisturise your skin as you swim.
Whatever your reason to visit, be it relaxing, recharging or reconnecting with nature, magnificent Madeira is an island to savour.
You can’t go far without meeting a person with a story about Ronaldo