A whole mew world
trip. So I stayed overnight in the new and luxurious Mamula Island Hotel, in a restored 19th-century fort a 40-minute boat ride from Boka Bay.
The focus is on wellness, with sunrise yoga classes, gong baths and a spa with exclusive products and Adriatic sea sponges to apply them with.
After some “me” time, I watched the sunset over the water with a cocktail on the terrace. After a dinner of delicious, fresh seafood in its restaurant I dozed off to the sound of the fire crackling in my rustic bedroom.
Montenegrin cuisine includes lots of fish such as tuna and sea bream, as well as octopus, squid and prawns, which I enjoyed in a risotto at Kole restaurant in the former capital of Cetinje.
On the way I drove through Njegusi, the home of Njegusi prosciutto, where the smell of it being smoked on beechwood hung in the air. The meat is often served as a starter on a platter alongside Njegusi cheese.
Another Montenegrin delicacy is makaruli, a thick noodle. But before I could have the dish, which is traditionally served with pasticada – a beef stew in a sweet and sour sauce – I tried making my own makaruli at a pasta class at the Radjenovic household near the resort town of Budva.
At first, rolling the makaruli into perfect, thick strips was a bit of an effort, but I soon took to it and was rewarded for my efforts with a glass of the Radjenovic’s speciality rose-flavoured rakija, which tasted like a liquid Turkish delight. Montenegro’s national alcoholic drink, rakija is a type of brandy that can be made out of many different fruits and flowers.
Once the makaruli was served, it went perfectly with a full-bodied wine made from vranac grapes. While wine lovers may not immediately think of Montenegro, it is home to several vineyards and has been a hub of wine production for thousands of years, thanks to its mild and sunny climate.
I visited Winery Garnet for a tasting session, complete with prosciutto and cheese.
Sat on the terrace enjoying my wine – Garnet’s rose was a highlight – I had a beautiful view over Godinje, a village which, like Kotor, has preserved its medieval architecture.
There were also stunning views of Stara Carsija Hotel, which looks out over the old town of Bar, the largest medieval archaeological site in the Balkans.
Staying at Stara Carsija for two nights gave me the opportunity to sample the nightlife in Bar’s new town. I danced the night away to Balkan beats in the popular Green Mill nightclub. The less said about the Blue Frog cocktails the better...
Montenegro might be a young and tiny country, but has a lot to offer for all kinds of travellers. From its lush scenery to fabulous food, this Balkan beauty is proof that the best things come in small packages.
paintings to old adverts, vintage film posters and vinyl record covers.
There were even real-life kitties lounging about in the gift shop.
The museum doesn’t take card payments, so make sure you have €1 (despite not yet being in the EU, Montenegro adopted the Euro in 2002) if you want to enter – and more cash if you want to buy any gifts there. Choose from tote bags, statues, posters or, bizarrely, a lighter showing a picture of Russian president Vladimir Putin holding an orange cat.
Previously part of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, then Serbia and Montenegro following its dissolution in 1989, Montenegro as it is today is technically a very young country. It became independent in 2006, but that doesn’t mean it is lacking in history.
Kotor lies in Boka Bay, which has been inhabited since antiquity and is home to several historic landmarks.
After a relaxing night’s stay at the five-star Heritage Grand Perast by Rixos in nearby Perast, another well-preserved Montenegrin town which has UNESCO protection, I took a boat trip to Our Lady of the Rocks.
Legend has it that sailors made the islet where the 18th-century Catholic church sits by laying a rock in the bay every time they returned from a successful voyage over a 300-year period.
It came about after seamen found the icon of Madonna and Child on a rock in the sea in 1452 and made an oath to honour it with its own island and church.
The interior of the church, which was renovated in 1722, has its own stories, including a votive tapestry embroidered by local woman Jacinta Kunic-mijovic. She spent 25 years working on it while she waited for her love to return from a long journey, and was blind by the time she finished it.
The tapestry, which bears the image of the Virgin Mary with Jesus, was fashioned from golden and silver, and Jacinta embroidered her hair into it too.
As well as history and legends, Montenegro boasts lots of beautiful scenery. One highlight was a two-hour birdwatching tour down Skadar Lake, which borders Albania, with Boat Milica tours.
As I looked through my binoculars, it wasn’t just rare birds such as the Dalmatian pelican that caught my eye. All around were shimmering, bright blue waters, dramatic mountains and deep forests.
It is very reminiscent of the Canadian Rockies – but travelling to Montenegro means avoiding a long-haul flight and dealing with jet lag. Flights to Tivat take just under three hours from Gatwick.
As Montenegro is small – 5,332sq miles – you can head to the mountains to ski then cross half the country to swim or kayak in the Adriatic within one day.
But I was looking for a more relaxing
Ski in the mountains then cross land to swim in the sea all within a day