Trades hotspot resorts for nature in the north
ROHAN SMYTH
sea level and the panorama that can be seen from the viewing platform at the top is simply breathtaking.
Hardy hikers can take up a path all the way up and there are also trails to follow once you get to the top if you fancy exploring more of the peaks.
In the foothills of the mountains, we visited the Santo Toribio de Liébana monastery, which claims to hold the largest piece of the actual cross that Jesus Christ was crucified on.
It is also a site that pilgrims flock to as part of the many Caminos which pass through the area — and the monastery is currently celebrating its jubilee year, which only occurs when the feast day of St Toribio (April 16) falls on a Sunday.
This happened last year and means that a ‘Door of Forgiveness’ at the monastery can be opened up until April 16, 2024 — so all the more reason to visit now if 2023 was a particularly sinful year!
After dinner in the scenic little town of Potes, a popular base from which to explore the Picos de Europa park, we headed to Comillas, home of one of the few buildings outside of Catalonia designed by Spanish maestro Antoni Gaudí.
The striking El Capricho villa — called ‘the house of sun and music’ — was built in the 1880s for a wealthy lawyer, who died before construction was complete.
Although not as famous as Gaudí’s
Sagrada Familia and Park Güell in Barcelona, it is still a captivating attraction.
Like Asturias, Cantabria has a wealth of quaint small towns and villages — two of the standouts are Ruiloba, which houses the beautiful Bodegas El Miradorio vineyard, and the marvellously medieval Santillana del Mar.
Located near the latter is the renowned cave complex of Altamira, a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring prehistoric cave art.
Although the original caves have been sealed off to conserve them, they have been lovingly reconstructed in a replica exhibition that transports you back in time as you marvel at the ancient artworks.
The final stop of our trip was in the cosmopolitan Cantabrian capital of Santander, a port city that can be reached by plane or ferry from Ireland.
Combining the traditional with the modern, Santander needs at least a day or two to fully explore. Take some time to enjoy the luxuriant beaches, soak up the views from the Cabo Mayor lighthouse, or take a stroll around the stunning gardens at Magdalena Palace — there is something for every taste.
From Cabo Mayor you can also see part of the Costa Quebrada (Broken Coast) geological park, which is aspiring for UNESCO Global Geopark status.
This area extends for more than 20km from Santander to Santillana del Mar and is unique in Europe for the high density and variety of geological formations that make it up.
Meanwhile, one abiding memory from Santander for me is taking a boat trip out to a chiringuito (beach bar) and enjoying a beer while looking back at the cityscape from across the water — a little slice of heaven.
So if you’re booking a holiday this January and want to get off the beaten track a bit, make sure to ‘go green’ and enjoy all the riches that northern Spain has to offer.
For more on Asturias and Cantabria, seeturismoasturias.es and turismodecantabria.com.