Christopher Megrath
Takes roads less travelled to get to know the real Italy
Packed with architectural masterpieces, characterful districts, beautiful bars and boutiques, Milan is a minefield of marvellous must-dos.
But to live like a local in Italy’s most fashionable city, surely you must need to be a seasoned traveller? Not if you team up with those in the know.
Avani Hotels has 34 properties in 15 countries, and has teamed up with local experts to give guests the pick of the best bits, such as an insider’s guided tour or a traditional cooking experience.
You’ll never trawl the streets in the vague hope of finding the restaurant that serves the perfect risotto alla Milanese. Never will a sight bigged up by a blogger be a letdown in real life.
Everything you do in the company of their guides has been hand-selected for its quality and authenticity.
I stayed at Milan’s new Avani Palazzo Moscova Hotel, located between the lively districts of Porta Nuova, with its futuristic skyscrapers, and Corso Como, renowned for its buzzing nightlife.
This 65-room abode was built as the city’s first railway station, and used to be the HQ of fashion house Moschino.
Glamour reigns in its seafood restaurant, Forte, while the terrace bar is popular for an aperitivo. Minimaliststyle rooms are equipped with all the latest gadgetry.
I had my first taste of Milanese life on a driving adventure through the city with Fede on his vintage Fiat 500.
One of the bespoke experiences offered by the hotel, guests see the sights on a fun and fact-filled two-and-a-half hour joyride. And in such an eye-catching
car – similar to the one Ethan Hunt drives down the Spanish Steps in Mission: Impossible – Dead Reckoning Part One – you’ll turn heads.
It once belonged to Fede’s parents, who drove him around Milan in it as a kid. He was admiring it in their garage after lockdown when inspiration hit.
Tell him what you’re interested in, be it art, architecture, history or fashion, and he’ll take you there. Stop by the beautiful architecture of “silent district” Quadrilatero del Silenzio. Take in Villa Invernizzi with its famous resident pink flamingos. Then cruise by rainbow-coloured houses on Via Abraham Lincoln. There’s no formula and the conversation flows freely.
If you’re a fan of designer fashion, but love a bargain, the hotel also offers a unique shopping tour. An expert guide will lead you to the best boutique stores, full of locals’ second-hand items boasting labels like Valentino and Prada. It’s impossible not to find something fabulous.
A home-cooking evening with culinary and wine experts Valentina and Marco at their apartment was another bespoke highlight.
The pair have studied Italian cooking and taken sommelier courses around the world, but say the best teachers were their mama and nonna.
Served supperclub style along with other guests who’ve booked in, their cooking was authentic, understated, locally sourced and served with natural wines from small producers.
Avani’s tours were great fun, and opened up so much of the city I would never have discovered for myself. With experts full of knowledge and authentic Italian enthusiasm, it was like being shown around by friends in the know, and would be great for solo travellers who want to meet like-minded tourists.
If you want to strike out on your own, however, the Avani is very well placed for a wander. A glance in any direction leads you on a path to a wonderful discovery, such as the fashionable Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II, home to designers such as Gucci and Prada.
Italy’s oldest active shopping gallery, it is named after the first king of the Kingdom of Italy.
A detour led me to Castello Sforzesco, a fort built in the 15th century by the Duke of Milan. Renovated and enlarged in the 16th and 17th centuries, it was one of the biggest citadels in Europe. The nearby Parco Sempione is a magnificent Englishstyle landscaped park.
In Milan there are endless impressive sights demanding your attention, from The Last Supper fresco at Santa Maria delle Grazie to the gigantic Gothic-style Duomo cathedral.
But if you want to expand your trip, travelling between cities is easy. From Milan it’s a two-and-a-half hour train ride via Bologna to Venice.
The Hotel Avani Rio Novo Venice is in Dorsoduro where the Venetians live and play, and you’re a hop, skip and a paddle from Piazzale Roma, the gateway for buses, taxis and trams and the Grand Canal.
It too offers bespoke experiences, such as becoming a mask-maker for the day. The tradition of wearing masks dates back to the 1600s and became the great equaliser as it enabled social classes to mix. These ornate creations are sold as souvenirs all over Venice. Glass-making is
another heritage craft and you can uncover the secrets of this ancient art with experts in their studio. But what is a trip to Venice without a ride on a gondola? Relax as you get a ground-level view of the canals and buildings. There’s no singing but you’ll get a tour with fascinating facts about the city’s history. My final sightseeing stop was at St Mark’s Basilica. One of Italy’s most spectacular cathedrals, it’s known as the Golden Church because of its spectacular golden mosaics. You could stand and stare at its detailed craftsmanship for hours. Mixing bespoke excursions and experiences while going solo to tick off the big sights was a great way to get to know this fabulous pair of Italian cities. My magical memories of la dolce vita will last a lifetime.
‘‘ Take a unique shopping tour for fans of designer fashion who love a bargain