Andy Stenning
Explores the pretty, quirky Latvian capital Riga
Graham Greene called Riga “The Paris of the North” and it’s easy to see why. The handsome Latvian capital boasts towering Romanesque and Gothic cathedrals as well as a stunning medieval core that rests on the banks of the River Daugava.
Described as “the metropolis of Art Nouveau”, it has 800 buildings in this style, with architect Mikhail Eisenstein the driving force behind movement.
While the narrow cobbled streets, cafes and bars of Old Riga and wide boulevards of the New Town give it its Parisian feel, its climate is distinctly different. Sitting near the Baltic Sea, temperatures can be, well, pretty Baltic.
Nonetheless the welcome is warm, there’s a youthful buzz about the place, and the locals are friendly.
Greene left on a midnight train to Berlin by the way, missing all the fun of a snappy revolution in 1934 only finding out about it in Germany the next day.
Latvia’s roots date back to the 1200s. It was on a major trading route and was part of the Lithuanian-polish Commonwealth until the late 1600s.
There have been a few coups and occupations since, including Sweden in the 1700s, The Russian Empire, Nazi Germany and Soviet Russia again after the Second World War. The last Soviet occupation ended in 1991.
Now there are more peaceful invaders as countless Baltic cruise ships regularly drop off tourists.
Despite its chilly winters, summer temperatures regularly hit 30C. I visited at the end of October on the new British Airways service from London, which operates three times a week.
It is a lot quieter in the winter months
but wandering around the Old Town – still hemmed in by what is left of the ancient moat that circles the city – I spent hours exploring lanes lined with beautiful buildings.
A particular highlight of the Old Town, which is listed as a sight of significance by UNESCO, is Albert Street – or Alberta Iela – flanked by grand residences and the central churches of St Peter’s – Riga’s tallest – and the Kristus of the Nativity.
My favourite building was House of the Black Heads with its opulent facade. Nothing to do with pimples, it was named after a clan of merchants, and hosts concerts and exhibitions.
There are quirky treasures all around Riga, from human figures, both real and mythological, to floral motifs and masks.
No tour is complete without a visit to the Cat House, adorned by a statue of an angry moggie. A wealthy Latvian merchant was so incensed at being refused entry to Riga’s Great Guild, which controlled business interests, that he stuck the black cat on the roof to express his displeasure.
Latvians love museums and one little gem is the Anatomy Museum, with specimen jars of body parts and a cabinet of skulls. The place was full of giggling schoolchildren when I was there, pointing at preserved rude bits in jars. Seek out the spooky virtual skeleton that mimics your movement and makes a great selfie.
The Museum of Occupation, with stories of the KGB, is a fascinating place to spend a few hours.
Others include the Museum of Horns and Antlers, and a museum dedicated to Baron Munchausen!
The markets of Riga and the Latvian National Opera shouldn’t be missed either. The Opera House is a spectacular old-style theatre with posh boxes and an orchestra pit. Tickets range from €11 to €50.
I had time to buy a few souvenirs at the restored Agenskalns Market, dating back to 1898. It reopened in 2022 after a four-year renovation. On the first floor, you can sample local farmers’ and traders’ wares, up a storey are cool bars and cafes. After soaking up the beauty of this cosmopolitan capital, unwind with a few drinks and a bite to eat.
A pint of beer or a glass of wine costs about €3 to €7, depending on the location.
I loved Ms&mr Beer taphouse with its vast array of craft beers and interesting seating, such as a motorbike or a car.
The Thirsty Bulldog sports bar in the Old Town has a great selection of beers and snacks and eight screens showing sports.
Admiring the city while sipping cocktails in Skyline bar on the 26th floor of the Radisson Blu was another high.
If you want to treat yourself, visit 3 Chefs restaurant in the Jacob’s Barracks complex.
I would also recommend Chefs Corner, a brasserie with a choice of steaks. Veggie options available too.
To make the most of your visit, pick a hotel close to the main sights. I stayed at the five-star
Grand Poet Hotel across from Bastejkalna Park. Best time of year to go? The city hosts a packed yearly programme of events and festivals. One-way BA flights cost around £60 in winter; £150 in summer. Go for a package deal to get a five-star hotel at three-star prices. With so much to love about this Latvian jewel, Riga’s renaissance is revving up nicely.
Children giggled at rude bits in jars at the Anatomy Museum