The other Cork
While West Cork is the place to go for many, Janice Butler explains why there’s plenty to celebrate in the eastern half of the biggest county, especially for foodies and lovers of the outdoors
Most visitors visiting Co Cork go west to the familiar foodie towns and stunning ocean views of West Cork, but the other side of the county has an equally compelling landscape and so much to offer the discerning diner. A part of the Ancient East tourist trail, this region has a rich maritime history and pretty little towns like Shangarry and Castlemartyr offer a rural retreat, while Midleton’s charms come with a warming taste of whiskey.
Midleton The home of the Jameson Distillery, where you can see how whiskey was once made in the atmospheric stone buildings powered by a waterwheel, still in working order. The new distillery is next door, a strikingly different contemporary structure. Beside the distillery is a lovely bar, J.J Coppingers, a 156-yearold Gothic revival building that has kept its original architectural splendour, with some modern touches. Its big fireplaces make it particularly cosy on a cold day.
Midleton is an historic market town, now with a busy farmers’ market every Saturday, that was set up with the enthusiastic support of local food champion Darina Allen. It’s a showcase for the best of local producers and growers, and the highly praised Sage restaurant in Midleton has built its reputation by using produce from the locality and has become a leading light of the ‘micro-local’ food philosophy.
Shanagarry Home to the worldfamous Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry is a little east Cork gem that attracts chefs and all manner of foodies from all over the globe. Originally set up by Myrtle and Ivan Allen, the land around the cookery school is still a working farm, supplying fresh produce to the restaurant and school. If you’re in the area, it’s worth popping into the restaurant for some delicious baked goods and homemade butter like you’ve never tasted before. The nearby beach is also a pleasure to walk on to clear the cobwebs and tire out the kids!
Ballycotton Here is where the people of east Cork go to the seaside. A cute, old-fashioned family resort and fishing community, there are a number of beaches and cliff walks to explore, lighthouses to see, and boat trips and water activities to enjoy. Best of all, for seafood-lovers, there is a working pier where you can see the catch of the day being landed.