The good life under clear blue skies
ONE of the tiniest capital cities in the world was buzzing. Victoria, the capital of Mahe — the biggest island in the Seychelles, was about to host its sixth annual ‘Carnaval’. The excitement was palpable. ‘Are you here for Carnaval?’ was the first question on everyone’s lips. And I was lucky enough to be there to enjoy the festive atmosphere.
While wildlife has been abundant on the Seychelles for many years, human habitation has been relatively recent. In 1502 Vasco de Gama spotted some of the islands of the archipelago but did nothing about it, then in 1609 a trading fleet from the English East India Company got lost in a storm and landed on the islands. They reported the plentiful wildlife and coconuts, but no action was taken, and it wasn’t until 1742 that the French, who were occupying nearby Mauritius, decided to chart the islands in the vicinity and landed on Mahe. Colonial wars between the English and the French ensued and it wasn’t until 1756 that the French laid claim to the islands before the English did. The French colonists brought many slaves with them, mainly from Africa and India. After much colonial warfare, in the 19th century the British moved in and took an anti-slavery stance. A lot of slaves who had been freed south of the equator were brought to the Seychelles and as a result the islands are a melting pot of cultures. Carnaval is seen as a forum to celebrate this diversity of ethnicity and celebrate unity and peace. Dancers and performers from around the globe participate and it’s increasing in size every year. There are delegations from Brazil, Italy, Germany, South Africa, France, Indonesia, and Notting Hill to name but a few. It’s a bit like a huge Paddy’s Day Parade in beautiful weather. Seychellois people love to dance and that’s evident in the streets. It was a great way to be introduced to a gracious, friendly, and extremely laid-back people.
After three days of fun it was time to do a spot of island-hopping and some serious relaxation and pampering. And where better than Raffles on the nearby island of Praslin. Praslin is the second biggest island in the archipelago and a 20-minute plane ride from Mahe. In a small plane. I have a ridiculous fear of big planes, not to mind small ones, so it was with a serious amount of fear and trepidation that I approached the runway and climbed aboard. Why I chose to sit behind the pilot I will never know. Masochism at its highest level. I watched his every facial expression. If he was smiling, I knew we were OK. If he wasn’t, every swear word I know was being muttered. My fear was totally unfounded. It was the smoothest take-off and landing ever.
And then a short drive to the sumptuous Raffles. A lot of the hotels in the Seychelles tend to be resorts, with their own beaches, pools and spa facilities, so you don’t need to move if it’s a total chill-out you are after. A buggy delivered me to my own villa in the middle of lush tropical vegetation with my own pool and patio area. The beaches are beyond belief. I know the whole thing of turquoise waters and white sands is a bit cliched, but in the Seychelles it’s absolutely true. The water is warm and clear. Shoals of fish are visible by just standing in the shallow areas to cool off. A French man had taken his two young kids out to fish and they came back with the most amazing catch. Three huge fish, a marlin being the biggest. The hotel staff cooked their catch for them that night.
I ate that night in Curieuse Restaurant, one of Raffles’s best. A starter
‘Anny, the duty manager, told me they had an Irish wedding a few weeks before’
of prawns in a crispy batter with sweet chilli sauce, followed by crispy fried fish tossed in onion, garlic and ginger, was sublime. Anny, the duty manager, told me they had had an Irish wedding a few weeks before. I cannot imagine a more idyllic location. The meal on my second night was equally fabulous. Vallee de Mai palm heart soup followed by fruitti di mare risotto, consisting of lobster, clams, mussels, grouper, scallops, prawns and arugula rice and parmesan flakes. I could get used to this.
Praslin is home to the Vallee de Mai and the world’s heaviest nut, the coco de mer. A Unesco World Heritage Site, it’s a trip back in time. General Gordon proclaimed this primeval forest to be the Garden of Eden. Lots of palms grow in the Vallee de Mai but the huge coco de mer towers above them. The leaves are enormous and provide great shelter from the sun on a hot day. The coco de mer nut, from the female tree, is huge and shaped like a female bottom and other bits, and the male catkin is phallic in appearance so the jokes are endless. You can walk around for an hour or do the whole forest in about three hours.
La Digue is the fourth largest island and is actually tiny. There is no airstrip so I took the 15-minute ferry from Praslin. Hammed, who grew up on the island, took me on a trip in his car to see the sights. There are few cars on the island and most people hire bikes with colourful baskets, but with the heat that day most of their faces were turning a deep shade of
‘Esmerelda, reported to be the oldest tortoise in the world, lives here. He is very heavy and likes the shade’
cerise. I was so grateful for Hammed, even if he is an Arsenal supporter. Ox carts are another popular means of transport. Three thousand people live here, and everyone knows everyone, according to Hammed. We visited the Union Estate, an old coconut plantation. The plantation house still stands and has been restored and the film Goodbye Emmanuelle was shot here.
Bird Island is truly amazing. It is the most northerly island of the Seychelles. Bought by the present owners in 1967, it was once a plantation. A small hotel was built to enable people to enjoy the abundant wildlife. There are millions of birds, and to sit on my verandah, surrounded by orange cordia and white frangipani trees, watching white-tailed tropics, lesser noddies and the little red Madagascar fodies was such a treat. They wander in your door and sit on the furniture. One insisted on sitting on my packet of fags and wouldn’t get up. A health-conscious avian.
Robby has been the conservationist here for 30 years and a nature walk with him is a must. He pointed out a white-tailed tropic feeding her young with sardines and furry chicks with their mums. His love for the wildlife is infectious. He appears to know the meaning of every sound the birds make and he makes them back. We had our own Dr Dolittle tortoise stroll past our verandah too. Esmeralda, who is reported to be the oldest tortoise in the world, lives here. He is very heavy and breaks the scales, is very old, and likes the shade. I felt a real affinity with him (despite the name, he’s a boy). My soul-mate. Not too fond of the intense heat, struggles with the weight, and getting old. Lots of similarities. Nick Savy is the son of the man who purchased the island in 1967 and runs the lodge now. His great grandmother was an O’Sullivan from Cork, and his gorgeous little four-year-old daughter Isla has inherited the red hair. His mum loved Ireland and regularly went there for St Patrick’s Day. Sadly, she passed away last year on, believe it or not, March 17.
My final day of hedonism was back on Mahe in the Hilton Northolme. Small and perfectly formed. Again I had my own beautiful villa with a stunning view out over the bay. Eddie from Glasgow is the executive cluster chef for the three Hilton hotels in the Seychelles, and boy does he know how to lay on a feast. Coconut-crusted shrimp, passion fruit and chilli for starters and then the best fillet steak I think I’ve ever had. Then I had an aromatherapy massage looking out over the clear waters and before some more sunbathing. What more could a girl want?
I was now nearly as laid back as the locals. Who wouldn’t be — surrounded by idyllic beaches, turquoise waters and clear, blue skies.