Philip Hedderman gets a taste for the storied history and culinary delights of Waterford
IF there’s one thing Waterford is not short on it’s history. From Vikings with chilling names like ‘Ivor the Boneless’ to dangerous liaisons (none more perilous than being courted by King Henry VIII) — the ancient city has it all.
Apparently marrying then beheading two of his six wives and declaring a religious war on Rome weren’t his majesty’s only passions.
Thanks to colourful tales of adventure on the high seas — regaled by his childhood friend and Waterford native William Wyse — the royal lothario had already fallen for the charms of Ireland’s oldest city.
Decades earlier his father King Henry VII gifted Waterford the motto Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia — Waterford remains the untaken city — in recognition of their unconditional loyalty to him.
And as an added act of appreciation to local merchant John Wyse, King Henry invited his son William to be brought up and educated in the royal court.
William and young Henry, who went on to inherit the throne, became inseparable.
Henry then became the first English monarch to formally adopt the title King of Ireland. He would later reward the bustling port city for its unwavering support during the rebellion of 1534 when the same William Wyse, former mayor of Waterford and ambassador to the crown, brought home the gift of the Cap of Maintenance and sword to Waterford.
The hat with an embroidered Tudor rose on top and daisies around the brim is the only item of Henry’s clothing to survive anywhere in the world. And it, the sword and three royal charters are all on display at the Medieval Museum.
In the heart of the city centre and listed as the No1 visitor attraction on Tripadvisor, you can step back in time with this award-winning experience which costs €7 for adults while children under 12 go free.
Wander at your leisure through the centuries and feast your eyes on a treasure trove of rare artefacts including the Cloth of Gold Vestments and the aforementioned decrees — viewed by Queen Elizabeth on her historic visit to Ireland.
It’s an eclectic mix of the weird and wonderful from the lavish garments to crude dentures for the orthodontically challenged — made from real human teeth.
From here you can stroll down to Reginald’s Tower and transport yourself even further back in time to 947AD when the Norsemen first settled here. The building, in constant use for over 800 years, formed the apex of a triangular settlement and sat on the main thoroughfare which is still in use today.
Inside is a comprehensive collection of Viking possessions including a Kite brooch crafted from gold silver and amethyst-coloured glass studs from 1100 to ornate swords and other weaponry.
A number of gaming boards and dice made from animal bone and antlers are on show as are chesslike pieces from the Norse game Hnefatafl which are wedged in place to keep them secure — a favourite pastime of the sea-faring marauders en-route to plunder.
Just up the street is the newly-opened House Of Waterford Crystal which is a working factory where visitors can witness the creation of crystal stemware, giftware — and maybe the odd masterpiece — right before your very eyes.
Discover the history behind 200 years of glass making and revel at the many exquisite sports trophies including the Irish Open Golf, tennis, racing, snooker and even American Football.
Tickets cost €12.15 per adult and €4 for children under 18 and a family of four for €30.
Now all that culture plus a spot of shopping takes its toll on the legs so we were delighted to be reinvigorated with a relaxing stay at the sumptuous Faithlegg House and Golf resort and Spa just 4kms outside the city.
The leisure centre was a Godsend and the perfect therapy for our aching bones which was only topped by a fabulous steak dinner in their award-winning restaurant.
After a wonderful night’s sleep in the Olivia Suite (which had two king size double beds) we packed our swimming trunks and sun cream and headed for the legendary Copper Coast.
First stop Tramore — a firm favourite with Dublin families down the years and easily the busiest of the resorts. Thankfully parking is plentiful and very reasonable — just €2 for the day.
Stroll along the prom, swim, surf or the really adventurous can hit the amusements for a spin on the dodgems, Waltzer or admire the views from the giant Ferris wheel.
If this proves a little too hectic (and it was very busy in June) then it’s best to head further up the coast to Waterford’s crowning glory — Dunmore East.
With picture postcard thatched cottages lining the narrow streets and secluded coves peppered along the coast, it’s a little piece of heaven.
The most popular beaches are Councillors, a south-facing strand between lofty red sandstone cliffs, and Lawlors, right in the village.
Soak up the stunning views across to Hook Head from the beer garden while perusing their extensive menu which specialises in fresh sea food and local produce.
You’ll be spoiled for choice with Black Knob crab claws and Duncannon mussels, just two of their signature dishes.
Those into more vigorous activities can head to Dunmore Adventure situated in the harbour where the kids (big and small) can take to the water with gutso.
Try your hand at kayaking, windsurfing, stand up paddle boarding, canoeing or have a go at the Wibit Wipeout Aquapark.
And why not master the most noble of all the sports — sailing — with two-five-day courses from beginners to advanced and all ISA certified.
Whatever you choose to do in this wonderful county, you’ll be guaranteed to be treated like royalty and it might even bring the Viking out in you.