John Greene learns to push his boundaries in The Kingdom,
THE thing about Killarney is that it is whatever you want it to be. The problem I had was that it took me a long time to figure that out. Sporadic trips to the town through the years had not lingered long in the memory. But that all changed 10 years ago. That’s when the real magic of Killarney finally dawned on me.
In July 2006, Longford were drawn against Kerry in the All-Ireland football qualifiers and the Kingdom as luck would have it had home advantage. Like they needed it! Most followers of Gaelic football remember it as the day that Kieran Donaghy was unleashed on the nation as Kerry won by three goals. I remember it for different reasons entirely.
It was a beautiful, sunny summer’s day and the famous old town was full of family and friends from my home county. Kerry won — of course Kerry won — but there was good humour everywhere as Longford and Kerry folk mingled on the streets in an incredible carnival atmosphere. For Longford football fans, it was a glimpse at how the other half live. But I like to think too that Kerry fans that day saw something of what life is like for those who don’t know what it’s like to always dine at football’s top table.
“Over 6,000 of them travelled south,” wrote Billy Keane in the Irish Independent. “Ten planes left from Abbeyshrule and all that was left behind in Longford was a skeleton staff so small there was hardly enough of them to turn the lights out.”
I saw a side of the town I had never seen before. That day Killarney was a football town to me. On that same weekend there were thousands of other visitors to Killarney, from Ireland, from the US, from all over, and they saw something different. Each to their own. Killarney is whatever you want it to be.
So, going back recently with my own family was a real treat, especially as our base for the duration of the holiday was the fantastic five-star Muckross Park Hotel & Spa, which is located in the heart of Killarney National Park surrounded by 25,000 acres of woodlands, lakes and mountains. We booked into one of the newly-refurbished apartments on the grounds of the hotel. Known as ‘The Reserve at Muckross’, these apartments underwent a major facelift earlier this year and they are the last word in self-catering accommodation. The two-bedroom apartments also feature kitchen, dining area and lounge, and you have full access to all the luxuries of a five-star resort, meaning for instance you can avail of the amazing breakfast feast served in the hotel.
From the start our children only ever referred to the apartment as our ‘home’. And that’s exactly how it felt, a real home from home.
An added bonus was that we had friends camping nearby at the
‘If the weather is fine then savour the great outdoors’
same time we were in Killarney and with good weather completing the picture, a good time was most definitely had by all.
There is just so much to see and do there when on a family holiday that part of the secret to making it work is not to overload on activities and attractions. There’s always the next time!
But when children are involved, the simple things generally work best. So, the two hours spent wandering around Muckross Traditional Farms — which takes you back to the Ireland of 100 years ago — were a big hit. The jarvey ride — which the hotel concierge will organise for you — through Killarney National Park, along Muckross Lake to Torc Waterfall, and back again was a real highlight for them too.
There is no need to overload on funfairs and the like when surrounded with such natural wonders like the park, lakes and waterfalls. There’s cycling, swimming, walking, hiking, horse riding and boating too . . . if the weather is fine then savour the great outdoors that this part of Ireland offers up in abundance.
We were fortunate during our stay that we were able to enjoy this side of Killarney and in hindsight the fact that we were staying a few kilometres outside the town probably steered us more down that path. In my previous visits I had stayed in the town itself and maybe this makes you lazier than you should be. Although, the kids will also push your boundaries. All I know is that Killarney to me now is much more than the town itself — there is just so much going on in and around it. It’s easy to forget the sheer natural beauty of the area, with its mountains, rivers and lakes which made Killarney the attraction that it became.
For the adults, the real treat of the break was a night out in the Yew Tree Restaurant, winner of last year’s Best Wild Atlantic Way Restaurant with Hotel & Catering. The hotel kindly arranged a babysitter in the apartment for the children so our friends joined us for a meal which proved to be one of the most memorable we have ever experienced. The food was amazing, the atmosphere was enchanting, and my main course of sea bass, crab and chorizo will live long in the memory.
As will this holiday. The kids’ faces still light up when we talk about it. Their home from home left an indelible mark.