The new hipster joing in town
Unable to stand the heat, restaurateur after restaurateur has got out of the kitchen at Charlotte Quay Dock, says Lucinda O’Sullivan. Will the latest crew to hoist their colours here have the right brand of cool?
‘Here we go again,” I said to my friend Paul, as we trudged along the cobblestones by the Grand Canal Dock to Charlotte Quay, the latest restaurant to set up shop in a premises I had got to know all too well in recent years. Conrad Gallagher’s Ocean was the first in, and Mourne Seafood Bar the last. I liked Mourne on my reviewing mission, going so far as to say, “It strikes me now as finally having the right crew on board”. So much for those words of wisdom! After a while, I was hearing disgruntled reports of the food and service. I heard then that the lease was for sale; that it was closing; so I rang the owner, who denied it vehemently. It closed.
Now, it’s the turn of Marc and Conor Bereen of Coppinger Row, who have installed a totally different vibe. It’s as if they’re ignoring the fact that it’s by the water — after all, it’s pretty bleak and cold nine months of the year — and they’ve gone with a warm, clubby look — leather banquettes and fashionable circular hubs.
We were there on its first night, and it was a mixed ‘audience’ of family, friends, a few braying social-media ‘first nighters’, and an abundance of trend-setting beards. Killian Durkin, the head chef, was previously in the erstwhile La Mere Zou, as well as Marcel’s, Thornton’s and Dillinger’s. It’s a menu that’s predominantly made up of small plates (€8-€13) and four mains (€18.50-€30). The style has expanded from the European Mediterranean foods of Coppinger Row, the mothership, to take in the Ottolenghi-inspired passion for more Southern Mediterranean or Middle Eastern food.
Salt cod croquettas looked good ‘next door’, as did a bowl of the ubiquitous gambas pil pil, as it was devoured by a size six who couldn’t possibly touch a carb! Toonsbridge halloumi with squash, pomegranate and za’atar was part of the ‘Mediterranean East’ touch, while Dexter beef tartare came with harissa, bulgar, sumac yogurt and unleavened flatbread.
Paul enjoyed his charred broccoli with roast almond hummus and a soft, crisp hen’s egg (€8); while my pretty plate of Italian-style tuna crudo (€12.50) in orange juice and olive oil, was topped with capers, chilli and scallions. Paul moved on with a tranche of tender, seared lamb shoulder (€25) which was served with couscous, prunes, za’atar and a good, tart tzatziki.
I ordered confit halibut, at a not inconsiderable €30, mainly because ‘the bits’ — orzo nero, fennel and cuttlefish — appealed. Halibut is a good, meaty fish, and the black (squid ink) orzo would be a good robust pairing, particularly with the cuttlefish, and the anise flavours of fennel — however, what arrived was very much blanco, blanco, blanco. The orzo was blanco, the confit halibut was a slithery, oily blanco, and the fennel on top was a chewy, oily blanco. I don’t expect perfection on a first night by any means, but, at €30, I queried the absence of what was actually billed with Conor Bereen. After a bit of, “He didn’t put much in” and “What about the flavours?”, I was asked if I wanted it taken back. I switched to a pleasant tian of crab and crayfish (€13) with toasted sourdough.
For dessert, Paul had a peanut butter parfait, salted caramel, banana and chocolate mousse (€7.50); while I had charred peach, fig, Amaretto and vanilla ice-cream (€8.50), both of which were lovely. You’re in haute hipster territory here, and there was only one white and one red wine under €30, with the bulk logging in at €30-€50, and galloping up to €120. With an organic Saladini Pilastri Falerio 2014, (2015 on list, €33), a blend of Trebbiano, Passerina and Pecorino grapes, and optional service for the pleasant waiters, our bill came to €117.50.