Sunday Independent (Ireland)

THE PERFECT . . .

Roast cauliflowe­r

- Killian Durkan is head chef at Charlotte Quay, Millennium Tower, Grand Canal Dock, D4, tel: (01) 908-9490, or see charlotteq­uay.ie In conversati­on with Sarah Caden by Killian Durkan

Your cut-out-and-keep guide to the fundamenta­ls of cooking

Ithink part of the reason that cauliflowe­r has become so popular is because people are getting more adventurou­s with vegetarian options. For years, they were so limited to just pasta and rice and stuff, but now they are actually getting adventurou­s with vegetables. We were all brought up on overcooked cauliflowe­r, and we’re used to it boiled and that’s that, but it’s really a very versatile vegetable. You can roast it, or eat it raw, or saute or pickle it, and it’s a great vegetable for picking up flavours. I started experiment­ing with cauliflowe­r a couple of years ago; microplani­ng it into risottos, and roasting it to make a caramelise­d cauliflowe­r puree that worked with white fish, the same way a brown-butter sauce would. Cauliflowe­r gets a wonderfull­y nutty flavour when you roast it. It can take on so much by way of flavour if you par-cook it in a heavily seasoned or spiced stock first, though. Par-cooking is key to making sure it’s not undercooke­d at the end of the roasting. This spicy stock is delicious, but you could vary your spices for different effects. Another option is to butter-poach the cauliflowe­r. Add some spices, such as cinnamon or cloves, to a pot of melted butter and simmer the cauliflowe­r in the butter before roasting it. Utterly unhealthy, but really delicious. In the restaurant, we serve the cauliflowe­r in this recipe with couscous and various flavours of pickled raisins, barberries, cranberrie­s and whole roasted almonds, garnished with pickled lemon and coriander. There’s a bit of butter, too, but essentiall­y, it’s a very healthy dish. Serves 2 or 3, depending on the cauliflowe­r.

You will need:

10 cardamom pods 1 teaspoon each of fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, black peppercorn­s, coriander seeds, fennel seeds 2 cloves 20g( ¾oz) ground turmeric 3L (5¼pts) water 2 large sticks cinnamon 2 curry leaves 2 tablespoon­s salt 1 large cauliflowe­r 50g (1¾oz) butter

Method:

Preheat the oven to 175°C, 350°F, Gas 5. Toast the cardamom pods, the fenugreek seeds, the cumin seeds, the black peppercorn­s, the coriander seeds, the fennel seeds, the cloves and the ground turmeric in a large dry saucepan until they are fragrant. Add the water, the cinnamon sticks, the curry leaves and the salt to the saucepan, bring it to the boil and allow it to simmer for 20 minutes to make a spiced stock. Trim off the outer leaves of the cauliflowe­r, place it whole in the simmering spiced stock and bring the stock back to the boil. Then remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the stock to cool, with the cauliflowe­r in it. Once the stock has cooled, remove the cauliflowe­r, place it on absorbent kitchen paper and slice it in half. In an ovenproof frying pan, foam the butter over a medium heat. Place the cauliflowe­r halves cut-side down into the pan, then place the pan into the preheated oven for 10 minutes.

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