Sweet squash

It may be surprising, Rachel Allen says, but butternut squash and sweet potato are two vegetables that more often than not, are interchangeable. Photography by Tony Gavin

While the butternut squash is not actually related to the sweet potato, I find myself interchanging them in the kitchen quite a lot; if I don’t have one, I’ll use the other. Both butternut squash and sweet potatoes have the ability to deliver a gorgeously rich smoothness to soups and mashes, with a subtly sweet taste that just adores Asian flavours and Mediterranean wintry herbs too. Perhaps it’s just a coincidence that they share the same bright orange-coloured flesh, but they both happen to behave impeccably if one is replaced by the other in a frittata, a quinoa salad or a vegetable curry too. Peeled and chunked, then tossed in olive oil and roasted in the oven is a great way of bringing out the natural sweetness in the vegetables and when served with a drizzle of pesto, some mozzarella or goat’s cheese and a scattering of rocket, you have a fab little starter on your hands.

This powerhouse of a sweet potato, pickled beetroot and lentil salad is packed with good things. It is as nutritious as it is filling, while full of flavours sharp, strong and sweet. With no leaves, this salad will be happy after dressing to keep for at least a day and so makes for a perfect packed lunch. Rather than using an imported feta cheese, you could go for the Irish Greek-style cheeses like St Tola and Toons Bridge, or the Knockalara sheep’s milk cheese, all which will bring a lovely salty tang and that characteristically crumbly texture too. And if you prefer, you can roast the beetroot rather than using pickled.

The southeast Asian-inspired soup, with creamy coconut milk and warming spices, is a dinger for this time of the year. The recipe makes quite a lot, but conveniently uses one whole tin of coconut milk, so if you have more soup than you need, it’ll be happy to oblige by keeping perfectly in the freezer for a few months.

The creamy gratin of butternut squash is a great recipe for when the evenings start to draw in, and when served with a delicious roast chicken, it’s comfort food at its best, which is exactly what we need at this time of the year.