Stars in our eyes
For whatever dubious reason, getting Michelin recognition in Ireland is like mission impossible, says Lucinda O’Sullivan. Fortunately, Kilkenny’s fabulous Campagne is one of the few to get its rightful place among the stars
Michelin made a big hoo-ha about revealing their 2017 stars for Great Britain and Ireland at a live event in London — the first time they have done it this way. It was a lacklustre performance of ‘local town hall’ speeches that wouldn’t have garnered them any awards! As they continually intoned about “Great Britain and Ireland”, I kept thinking that maybe after last year’s shock stripping of Kevin Thornton’s long-held star — the loss of which saw him shut up shop a few weeks ago — a better effort might be made when it came to Ireland. Not a bit of it — 20 new stars, 19 in the UK, and a miserly one in Ireland.
I’m sure the boys in the tiny Heron & Grey in Blackrock Market are thrilled with their star (the restaurant only opens three days a week, and as already reported, they’re now booked out until next August, and, Noma-style, they are re-opening their reservations in spring 2017!). They are more than worthy recipients, but then I can think of another 20 around the country . . . not to mention, also, the sparsity of fresh Bibs. I couldn’t but think of James Sheridan and Soizic Humbert, who pioneered this simple little Blackrock venue brilliantly with their Canteen at the Market, before moving to Maynooth.
I have long wondered how widely and often the ‘Michelin Man’ visits. It costs money to have people on the ground, and it’s not today or yesterday that former Michelin inspector Pascal Remy wrote a revealing book on the subject. The internet makes it so easy to see what is happening in areas and to cherrypick from what local critics are saying. The critics of three national newspapers, including myself, raved about Heron & Grey on its opening.
I was thinking on this over my boiled egg one Sunday morning recently, and as to where we could have a Michelin Sunday lunch. It transpired we weren’t going to be able to do it in Dublin, Waterford or Galway; so we were off to Garrett Byrne and Brid Hannon’s Campagne in Kilkenny, who never got overly precious about having a Michelin star — in fact, it’s one of the many things I love about them. They operate with the true French ethos of also being a local restaurant for their community, open six days a week, where people can come for a family Sunday lunch, an early bird or the full whammy, all at great prices.
On arrival, along with their a la carte, there was a three-course lunch/early bird menu at €33. I chose from the former, while Brendan went with the latter. He kicked off with the most amazing, intensely-flavoured bowl of smoked haddock in an organic leek sauce, which was topped with a deep-fried organic egg. I had an exquisite presentation of carpaccio-style, wafer-thin rondelles of cured beef fillet (€15), which were topped with large, crispy, deep-fried langoustines, langoustine mayo, and a quenelle of grated artichoke and horseradish. Absolutely ace.
Brendan’s free-range chicken was served in precision-cut shards, along with salsify, mushroom puree and Savoy cabbage. I had monkfish (€32), which was a perfectly cooked tranche, served atop coco de paimpol beans, squid and chorizo. We also had a lovely cauliflower gratin (€4.95).
I nabbed the dessert included on Brendan’s menu — an absolutely superb rum baba with caramelised pear, a quenelle of chestnut Chantilly, and pecan nuts. With double espressos (€3.95 each), which came with chocolate macaroons; water (€5), a bottle of Bodegas Menade, Rueda Verdejo 2014 (€34), and service, our bill came to €146.05.
The ambiance is sophisticated, the food superb, and the service informative and charming. I’d be there every week if I could.
Campagne 5 The Arches, Gashouse Lane, Kilkenny. Tel: (056) 777-2858 campagne.ie