Have your hake and eat it

Whether you love your fish plain and simple or robust and hearty, says Rachel Allen, hake is one worth fishing about for

The undershot jaw and spiky little teeth belie the truly great beauty that hake possesses. A deep-sea member of the cod family, hake, with its iron-grey skin and sparkling silver belly, has a gorgeously firm, almost meaty texture when it is cooked, with a delicious flavour that is both subtle and refined.

It’s hardly surprising that hake is ever-popular with the Spanish and Portuguese, as this particular fish loves strong, hearty flavours like chorizo, garlic, paprika and tomatoes.

Called saumon blanc (white salmon) in France, hake is truly lovely and versatile. Not only is it comfortable with big flavours, it’s also perfectly divine when it is simply pan-fried and served with nothing but a squeeze of lemon and a pinch of sea salt flakes.

The recipe, far right, for pan-fried hake with orange, thyme and smoked paprika butter, demonstrates the love this fish has for otherwise dominant, robust flavours. The butter is ideal for making a couple of days in advance and keeping in the fridge, or even popping into the freezer for a rainy day. It’s also superb with pork chops, by the way.

Like all fish, hake is a great source of protein, and one that we should be making the most of when possible. Of course, raw fish is supremely nutritious — but only delicious if the hake in question is spanking fresh. If so, I can heartily recommend this recipe for a carpaccio of hake with peppers and fresh herbs, right. Almost like a ceviche (a Latin American favourite in which the fish is cured in citrus juices) but not actually cured, the fresh, citrusy flavours make this a gorgeous spring or summer starter.

Let them eat hake!