Fit for a king

The Boyneside Slane Castle is an iconic Irish landmark, drawing the world’s biggest rock stars, says Lucinda O’Sullivan. Now, with a massive distillery launching this month, and two restaurants, she just had to check it out

A summer Sunday lunch with Brendan seemed the perfect way to check out the new Gandon Room Restaurant at Slane Castle in Co Meath.

We’ve all seen pictures down the years of the Conyngham family scion, Lord Henry Mount Charles, pioneering rock concerts on the estate, or devastated when a fire destroyed one-third of the castle, closing it to the public for 10 years. However, you don’t really get the full picture until you drive through the gates and look down at the solemn castle, looking, as it does, like something from the set of a historical blockbuster.

Every rock supremo in the world has played at Slane — from Mick Jagger to Freddie Mercury; David Bowie to Bruce Springsteen and Bob Dylan to Guns N’ Roses, who made a return this year, 25 years after their first gig there. The spirit of Slane Castle A couple of years ago Lord Henry and his son, Alex Conyngham, partnered with Brown-Forman — the US spirits giant that makes Jack Daniels, Southern Comfort and Finlandia vodka — in the construction of the €47m Slane Distillery, producing Slane Irish Whiskey, and this is due to open very shortly. So, it is all go in the Boyne Valley.

There are two dining areas at Slane Castle now, operated by Fitzers Catering. Browne’s Bar, a clubby-style bar filled with rock and roll memorabilia, is the more casual option. It was the former sitting room of Mary Browne, a Kerry woman who first joined Slane as a lady’s maid to Lord Henry’s great-grandmother, and went on to become the castle’s much-loved housekeeper.

We were lunching in the library-style Gandon Room, named for the 18thCentury architect James Gandon, who also designed Dublin’s Custom House, the Four Courts and King’s Inns. We were joined by Paula Carroll, who knows more than a thing or two about castles and celebrities.

One of the really great ambassadors for Irish tourism, Paula is celebrating 30 years as sales director of the amazing Ashford Castle at Cong, where Rory McIlroy tied the knot earlier this year. She probably spends more time in the air over the Atlantic than he does!

Modern Irish cuisine is the focus of the Gandon Room, we’re told, with head chef Catherine James Budriene. The threecourse Sunday lunch menu was €35, with kids’ half portions at €12.95 and a junior menu for €7.50. Paula kicked off with a tenderstem broccoli and potato soup served with treacle brown bread, about which she enthused. A very substantial rondelle of hazelnut-crumbed baked goat’s cheese for Brendan, which was paired with watermelon and a fire-roasted red pepper jus, was also excellent. I had a perfect crab and dill salad with cucumber and pressed beetroot. Swamped with sauce For mains, Paula enjoyed her herb-crusted baked cod fillet with a creamy mascarpone sauce, alongside a couple of roasted carrots and mash.

Brendan’s 28-day dry-aged roast sirloin of beef was a two-slice trencherman portion, flaccidly draped across mashed potato and roasted root vegetables; the lot was swamped with a thick dark-brown sauce. While the beef itself was fine, the presentation was more agricultural than aristocratic; it was off-putting and needs to be rejigged and refined.

My dish, on the other hand — the winner of the day — was chic and contemporary, truer to the ‘modern Irish’ mantra. It was a perfectly cooked, slightly pink, Silver Hill duck breast, (pictured left) sliced vertically, and served in a bowl with Asian greens, asparagus, butternut

“Every rock supremo has played at Slane — Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Bruce Springsteen, Bob Dylan, Guns N’ Roses!”

squash puree and an oriental-tinged duck jus. Clean-cut and simple, the flavours were delicious. The sweet side of Slane Desserts were excellent. Creme brulee, served in a traditional Franco-Moroccanstyle flat dish, was infused with ginger and served with shortcrust biscuits; a light and lovely treat. Paula’s chocolate and raspberry sponge was heavenly, while, for Brendan, a Slane-whiskey-and-toffee date pudding was rich and moist, meeting all the criteria to be suitably sinful.

Washing all of this down with a glorious, complex citrusy Te Pa Sauvignon Blanc 2016 Marlborough New Zealand (€39), our bill with optional service, water (€5.50), a double espresso (€5) and a side of roast potatoes (€5) came to €175.45.

Rock on up the road. The Gandon Room, Slane Castle, Slane, Co. Meath. Tel: (041) 982-0384 slanecastle.ie lucindaosullivan.com