Rachel Allen

With the chillier evenings closing in, Rachel Allen is yearning for some comfort food, and gratins are at the top of her list

Glorious gratins

Icould count on one hand — or maybe two — the number of big, warming, rib-sticking meals I’ve made this summer, but now, after a few months of lighter fare, I’m finding myself craving hot, steaming bowls of nourishment as the weather cools down and the evenings close in.

Gratins are the ultimate comfort food. Baked in a shallow dish with a browned top, and often created from a scattering of buttery breadcrumbs or grated cheese, they are like a big, loving hug in a dish. They are not dissimilar to the Italian method of cooking dishes al forno (in the oven); everything from spuds to celeriac can be covered in a sauce and baked gratin style.

Gratin dauphinois is a traditional French dish from the Dauphine region in south-east France, and dates back to the early 1700s. There are myriad variations to the dish, some containing creme fraiche, cheese, or even eggs. This version, pictured right, contains thyme, along with the ever-present nutmeg and garlic seasonings. I like to use a good floury potato, such as a Kerr’s Pink or Golden Wonder, for the best result.

Parsnips lend themselves perfectly to baking in the oven, as they soak up all the creamy deliciousness, and adore being topped with crunchy, cheesy crumbs. And when we are hankering after some strength-giving greens, kale is definitely the way to go.

All three recipes on these pages can be prepared before baking, but with the gratin dauphinois and the crunchy-topped parsnip and rosemary gratin, I like to par-bake them before chilling for the best result, as it prevents the vegetables discolouring while the gratin is being stored.

Full of goodness for the winter ahead, I can’t think of anything better to accompany a homely roast chicken on a chilly evening.

“Gratins are the ultimate comfort food. They’re like a big, loving hug in a dish”