MUNSTER TRAILS BEST OF THE WEST

BEST FOR LANDSCAPES OF LEGENDS

WHERE Cosan na Naomh, Co Kerry. WHAT Beginning from Ventry beach, follow the footsteps of pilgrims past by heading along the ancient Cosan na Naomh. Completing this 18km path is one of the best ways to experience the elemental, skeletal topography of West Kerry. The walk passes Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar monastic site before concluding in the shadow of Mount Brandon, which has long been associated with St Brendan. Crossing Reenconnell Hill, your gaze will be drawn north towards the slit-like outline of Brandon Creek. This is a reminder that here St Brendan set out on a voyage and thereby posed the question: was he the first European to reach the new world? Certainly, an ancient text describes, with credible detail, his seven-year journey to the “Isle of the Blessed”, which some scholars believe was North America. START/FINISH Ventry Beach/Ballybrack car park GETTING THERE Follow the R559 west from Dingle. At Ventry, swing left for Ventry strand. The Cosan na Naomh is signposted here. LEVEL Unchallenging — but reasonable fitness for an ascent of 275m. LENGTH/TIME TO WALK 18km/ 4.5 hours. PACK Some high protein snacks to keep you going, waterproof clothing, the OSI Discovery Series 70 map; a copy of Pilgrim Paths in Ireland — A Guide, by John G O’Dwyer. REFUEL Tigh TP in nearby Murreagh for bia blasta by the waterside.

BEST FOR EXHILARATING VIEWS

WHERE Torc Mountain, Co Kerry. WHAT Where is Kerry’s most spectacular mountain view? You might suggest Carrauntoohil, and Ireland’s highest mountain certainly offers intoxicating vistas — but suffers from the fact that, as from an aeroplane, you look down on everything. My favourite viewing point in the Killarney outback is instead the wonderfully accessible summit of Torc Mountain, which comes under the wing of the National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS). To appreciate this magnificent outlook, follow the Kerry Way south along a sylvan track to open moorland. Cross a stream and take a track going right. This leads to a boardwalk and upwards without further incident, to the summit. Your reward is a stunning panorama over Killarney’s world-famous lakes and fells with the angular Macgillycuddy’s Reeks as a stunning backdrop. START/FINISH Upper car park for Torc Waterfall.

GETTING THERE From the N71 Killarney/Kenmare Road, take a minor road left beyond the Muckross gates to gain the upper car park for Torc Waterfall. LEVEL Suitable for reasonably fit, novice walkers. Ascent is 480m.

LENGTH/TIME TO WALK 7km/3hours. PACK Map OSI Discovery Series 59, copy of The Iveragh Peninsula:

A Walking Guide by Adrian Hendroff; dry, spare clothing and waterproofs. Make sure any young ones are well wrapped up.

REFUEL The ‘olde worlde’ atmosphere and waterside setting of the Lake Hotel, Killarney (lakehotelkillarney.ie).

BEST FOR GENTLE EXPLORATION

WHERE Ballyvaughan Wood Loop, Co Clare. WHAT The Burren is undoubtedly Ireland’s most surreal and captivating landscape. Exploring it can be challenging, however, with its clints, grykes and tottering boulders proving the downfall of many. If you want to get close and personal with this enigmatic landscape without actually treading on it, begin by following the arrows for the Ballyvaughan Wood Loop — a Coillte creation. A hazel wood immediately acts as a reminder of the Burren paradox: hazel is the natural vegetation of the Burren that could, again, completely obscure the limestone if agricultural overuse is not maintained. Small fields and woodland paths then convey you to the Aillwee Caves and, perhaps, a welcome coffee. Beyond Aillwee, the ageless appeal of the Burren becomes inescapable, for the history of every era is here written in stone. Return to Ballyvaughan and try picking out as many as possible of the mesmerising array of prehistoric enclosures, stone forts and cairns alongside this ancient route. START/FINISH The harbour, Ballyvaughan.

GETTING THERE Trailhead lies beside the N67 between Lisdoonvarna and Kinvarra. LEVEL Suitable for strollers; almost level throughout.

LENGTH/TIME TO WALK 8km/2hrs. PACK Download the trail map from irishtrails.ie — or beg, borrow or steal a copy of Tim Robinson’s wonderful

The Burren (a two-inch map of Northwest Clare which is currently out of print). Also bring a good walking stick and waterproof clothing. Note that no dogs are allowed on this loop.

REFUEL Try to sidle in beside the open fire before sampling delicious seafood on the pier at Monks of Ballyvaughan ((monks.ie).

BEST FOR FAMILIES

WHERE Devil’s Bit Mountain, Co Tipperary. WHAT Generations of children have gazed in fascination at the remarkable gash in this plateau and by way of explanation were told the story of a fleeing demon, being pursued by St Patrick. Taking an angry bite from its summit, the fiend did a service for Irish tourism by dropping it to form the Rock of Cashel. Recount this tale as you ascend to gain an improbably located tower. Here, you explain that such buildings are called follies — but they actually served a purpose by drawing people to the highest point of an estate where they would be impressed by the great house and parklands below.

Onwards and upwards now to the Devil’s Bit proper where you might explain to any young ears that, in a cave nearby, the priceless Book of Dimma was discovered. This beautifully illuminated gospel, created at nearby St Cronan’s Abbey, now resides in the National Museum.

Before everyone races off to find the cave, you point out that it was later blocked off as a safety precaution and its location is lost in the mists of time. As compensation, kids will love the final rocky scramble to the 15m-high summit cross. Once again, the looped walk is a Coillterun property. START/FINISH Devil’s Bit car park, Killea, Co Tipperary. GETTING THERE Leave Templemore along the R501 for Borrisoleigh. Take the second right and then go right again at a T-junction. Now take the second left and continue to a large parking place. LEVEL Suitable for families and novice walkers on the 240m ascent. LENGTH/TIME TO WALK 3km/1.5 hours. PACK OSI Discovery Series 59; Tipperary and Waterford — A Walking Guide by John G O’Dwyer; spare clothing and waterproofs. REFUEL In the lovely Murphys, a pub on Main Street, Templemore (murphyspubtemplemore.ie).

BEST FOR DRAMATIC MOUNTAIN VIEWS

WHERE Coumshingaun, Co Waterford. WHAT Begin by taking a woodland track from Kilclooney car park to join a forestry road. Follow this right and cross a fence to open mountainside. Now it runs upwards towards a prominent skyline boulder, where you will clearly see your objective: the ridgeline left of Coumshingaun. You will rise quickly to gain a levelling of the route with the lake to your right. From here, in describing the glory of Coumshingaun, one of Europe’s finest glaciated corries, it’s hard to avoid cliches. Rather than risk adding more, suffice to say, you will likely be transfixed for a time by the grandeur of it all. Next comes a pleasantly elevated walk above great gullies that dive abruptly to the brooding waters below — until one final steepening leads to the summit plateau. Now follow (to your right) the edge of the precipice before swinging east and descending by the north side of the corrie. Afterwards, cross the mouth of Coumshingaun to return to Kilclooney. While the car park is Coillte property, it’s Lord Waterford’s lands to the top of Coum. START/FINISH Kilclooney Wood car park. GETTING THERE Follow the R676 from either Carrick-on-Suir or Dungarvan. The trailhead is near the midpoint between these towns. LEVEL As you need map reading and compass skills, this is suitable only for experienced walkers — and it includes an ascent of 620m. LENGTH/TIME TO WALK 7km/4hours PACK OSI Discovery Sheet 75; Tipperary and Waterford Walking Guide by John G O’Dwyer; spare clothing, waterproofs, compass, thermos of soup and good snacks to sustain you. REFUEL Kierseys Bar and Tearooms in nearby Kilmacthomas (kierseysbarandtearooms.ie).

Long walks are best for losing weight; short, faster walks are best for your heart and lungs