Kilronan knights
Having visited the spectacular Kilronan Castle Hotel in Ballyfarnon in the past, Lucinda O’Sullivan was delighted to be heading back to Roscommon, eager to check out new Head Chef David Porter’s much-lauded cuisine.
Turning off the main road and heading for Ballyfarnon, through narrow roads of beautiful forested and lake areas, we were on our way to Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa, which I had visited before, but which now has a new chef, David Porter, and his food has been attracting attention. As you swing through the gates and up the long wooded avenue, Kilronan stands proud over its rolling acres, where you almost expect to see Arthurian knights jousting and making merry.
It became a luxury castle hotel some 10 years ago, and lives up to anyone’s fairytale fantasies. The walls are heavily panelled, the stained-glass windows are beautiful, and a knight in armour lurks in a corner. The drawing room cum bar, with its big inglenook fireplace, is perfect for pre-dinner aperitifs (€11.90), which we had with a number of American guests who were loving it, and also enthusing about the hotel’s spa.
Deconstructing dinner
We were there on an overnight rate of €140pps, to include a five-course dinner with a choice from the lavish a la carte. The atmospheric oak-panelled restaurant, overlooking Lough Meelagh, abounds with historical paintings, while the waiting staff were professional and friendly, quickly bringing a superb amuse bouche of deconstructed cheesecake in a glass. This was not hipster Nordic fare, but classy, French-style food, with nods to current trends, and we were spoiled for choice. Starters (€8.50-€13.50) included breast of Wicklow wood-pigeon paired with summer truffles, raisin and pickled vegetables; while courgette and feta fritters were served with fennel, natural yoghurt, black garlic and lemon cappuccino; and smoked sea trout offered a nod to Japan, as it came with tempura mussels, cucumber sorbet and soy gel. I had a superb presentation of Kilmore king scallops (€12.50, plus a €2.50 supplement) interspersed with baby salt and pepper squid, fine asparagus tips, smoked rooster potato puree and an asparagus veloute. Brendan’s duck tortellini (€12.50) was equally impressive, and came with
caponata, Castaing foie gras and aged Parmesan.
An intermediate course consisted of wild peach sorbet with peach gel and a green tea foam; or a fragrant duck broth (both €9.50). Brendan’s sorbet was cool and pretty, but the duck broth was exceptional. A duck and chive wonton arrived in a bowl, onto which the waiter poured a deep, rich, ginger-and-dark-soystyle broth from a little Chinese teapot.
The Fisher King
It was difficult, too, to choose from the mains (€24.50-€34.50). Fillet of beef also included a daube with celeriac, hispi cabbage and oxtail jus; while Thornhill duck breast came with the sweet elements of beetroot, sweet garlic and blackberries. Organic lamb moussaka was served with aubergine caviar, roast tomato and feta cream; but, in the end, I succumbed to that king of fish, turbot (€34.50 plus a €2.50 supplement). A fine tranche, it was beautifully cooked — moist and firm, with a lightly-crisped, classic French-style potato-scale topping. A real touch of luxury was added by lobster ravioli, which was napped with lobster cappuccino; while ‘foraged sea herbs’ samphire and a type of sea spinach added the greenery.
Brendan’s ‘Chicken Dinner’ (€24.50) was more than met the eye — it was a sort of smartly presented ‘surf and turf ’ ballotine of chicken, served with honey carrots, salt cod fritters and truffle jus, which he enjoyed with a side of garlic potatoes (€4 supplement).
Shocking desserts
Desserts were equally accomplished and had to be tried. Caramel baklava (€8.50) came on a black plate with lemon gel, pistachio ketaifi and pistachio gelato; while almond financiers, pictured below left, were glamour personified, with shocking-pink Schiaparelli colours of raspberry powder, raspberry gel and
espuma. I’m seeing lots of increases in wine prices in middle-of-the-road places, but we were in a castle with a list that was both extensive and approachable, with lots of choice under €40, many by the glass, and we were delighted with our Bestheim Riesling 2014 (€34) from the Alsace. The next morning, we settled our bill of €334.90, and headed off to visit the nearby St Ronan’s Holy Well — who seems to have got around a lot, because we’ve also admired his relics at Locronan in Brittany, where he once lived.
Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa Ballyfarnon, Boyle, Co. Roscommon. Tel: (071) 961-8000 kilronancastle.ie
“This was not hipster Nordic fare, but classy, French-style food, with nods to current trends, and we were spoiled for choice”