RACHEL ALLEN
CHRISTMAS DINNER MADE EASY
Iadore everything about Christmas, not least the food, but I can understand how the thought of cooking the Big Meal can overwhelm people, particularly when it’s their first time cooking for a crowd. It does take some work, but aside from the hard labour, it requires careful thought and consideration.
Serving a roast turkey or goose is just like preparing a large chicken, but the fact that it’s ‘Christmas’, with people thinking there’s so much more pressure than at other times of the year, can send cooks running for the hills. Of course, the more people to help, the better, but that’s not necessarily always the key — too many cooks and all that!
Now is the time to get writing a list and checking it twice. A bit of organisation will go a long way. Try doing what we teach the students at the cookery school: write an order of work, with times attached. So, working backwards from the time you’d like to eat (not forgetting to rest the bird, if you’re cooking one, for at least half an hour) write down the whole menu, and the order in which the items should be prepared.
This will stand to you like you wouldn’t believe. It’ll prevent the distracted cook from forgetting to serve a whole dish, and goodness knows there are enough distractions on Christmas Day, what with all the excitement — and perhaps you are partial to a glass of festive fizz too, which doesn’t really help the concentration levels!
For me, the centerpiece of the table is the meat. I adore turkey at this time of year; a local free-range bird, cooked carefully and kept well moist with plenty of butter, is sublime. I love a glazed ham too, and not just for the essential leftovers. Goose is a tradition for many — rich and delicious, I particularly love it with this old-fashioned stuffing (see page 45) — it’s worth going the extra mile to make a delicious stuffing or glaze.
Speaking of stuffing, the reason it’s called stuffing is because it’s stuffed into the cavity of the bird, so don’t think it’ll taste anywhere near as nice if it’s cooked in a loaf tin. The juices of the bird will soak into the stuffing as the bird roasts, adding both divine flavour and moisture — although you will need to bake it away from the bird for any guests who don’t eat meat. If you are stuffing the bird any more than five minutes in advance, make sure the stuffing has cooled completely.
Spiced beef (see page 44) was traditionally eaten at Christmas and New Year, and it makes for a gorgeous Christmas roast, but it’s also superb in sandwiches as leftovers.
Before the main meal, though, I think you need a starter. I rarely serve a starter at home, but this feast really demands it. I think you need to cut down on any extra work on Christmas Day, so I love to serve a luxurious silky pate, which can be made two or even three days before. It goes especially well with sweet apple relish. If you’d rather not make pate, I think a lovely option is a plate of smoked fish ( see Rachel Recommends, far right). It’s so little hassle and tastes fantastic. I like to do some smoked salmon with maybe some smoked mackerel and smoked mussels. Very simple, but a lovely Christmas starter. A soup, of course, is the ultimate in makeahead convenience.
For the various vegetables, I like to have a balance between not having too much work to do in the kitchen on the day and having enough variety to make for a true Christmas feast. Roast potatoes are, to my mind, essential, as are Brussels sprouts (see recipe, above right). Prepare them on Christmas Eve and keep them in the fridge, covered with wet kitchen paper.
All in all, try to enjoy it, and remember — next year, it’s someone else’s turn.
Wishing you all a very happy Christmas!
Appetites cover, jumpsuit, Whistles, Brown Thomas; page 44, cardigan, Marks & Spencer. Make-up by Roisin Derrane for Lancome Paris, available from stockists nationwide. Hair by Ellie O’Donovan, The Edge Hair Design, Cork, using L’Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Styling Products. Christmas Props from Marks & Spencer