Manuela Spinelli

From footie to foodie, Trapattoni’s former right-hand woman on her penchant for eating Parmesan and her mum’s perfect roast rabbit

“In theory, I’m careful. But if I die tomorrow, I’ll be in Dante’s circle of gluttons”

What did your mother make you?

Mum, and my nana, made all sorts. My favourites were meatballs — not at all like you think of them — and vitello tonnato [cold veal in a creamy tuna-flavoured sauce]. Everything came from the garden and local farmers.

The meal you will always remember?

There are many, but my favourite memory is my first Michelin experience at La Palme D’Or, in the grand Hyatt Hotel Martinez in Cannes. I was 16, and thought I was in a movie.

What was your defining food experience?

Though I’m not a chef, I’ve been involved in food ever since I remember. I was lucky to spend a lot of time travelling in Europe with my dear friend, Luciano Tona. He’s a great chef and taught me all I know about food.

The first dish you ever cooked?

Risotto. It’s in my DNA.

What is your comfort food?

Depends on my mood! Generally pasta

aglio, olio and peperoncino [garlic, oil and chilli peppers] with a kilo of Parmesan.

What do you drink?

Good wine, and I love a Smithwick’s — though lately I’ve gone posh and moved to red ale and gin and tonics.

You can only eat three things for the rest of your life, what are they?

Pasta; pizza; cheese. I’m easily satisfied. Though I wouldn’t say no to foie gras, truffle and oysters.

Are you careful about what you eat?

In theory, yes, very much; in practice, if I die tomorrow, I will be in Dante’s circle of gluttons. I eat out a lot, so when I’m home I always cook with fresh, local ingredients and grow vegetables on my balcony. It’s therapeutic.

Most appetising smell in the world?

When mum makes tomato sauce in the summer and you can smell the fresh tomatoes and basil! Also, the first smell of coffee in the morning.

How important is food to you?

I’m Italian, food is an integral part of our life. If we are not eating food, we are talking about it. Food is the centre of everything. Home is sitting around the table talking to my family. It’s when I meet the people I love.

What’s your sweet treat?

Lemon tart and profiteroles.

What do you refuse to eat?

I can safely say I eat anything.

Worst meal ever?

Clearly, I’ve erased it from my mind.

What is your guilty pleasure?

Pizza! And I also like fake mashed potato, and eating chunks of Parmesan cheese while watching TV.

What’s your signature dish?

Risotto with porcini mushrooms and saffron. I make a mean risotto. I’ll challenge any chef.

Are there any foods you have had to cut out or cut down on?

Nope, I don’t cut out. I cut down if I have to. However, I don’t eat takeaways and fried food unless I have to.

What’s your perfect family meal?

Roast rabbit and potatoes, it reminds me of Sundays at my parents. I still can’t cook it like mum, though.

Manuela Spinelli is Secretary-General of Euro-toques Ireland, the Irish branch of the European community of chefs and cooks. See euro-toques.ie

In conversation with Sophie White