Something fishy going on...

Supremely comforting and a bit special, fish soups are just what we crave at this time of year, says Rachel Allen, who has some delicious recipes for you to try

There are few things more luscious and luxurious than a steaminghot bowl of fish soup. It’s not surprising that so many countries have one as part of their national cuisine. Take the indulgent but extremely satisfying French bouillabaisse, with it’s garlicky rouille and crouton topping; the divinely aromatic Swedish fisksoppa ;ora good old North American clam chowder. They’re as varied as the countries from which they hail, but each one is worth having in your gastronomic repertoire, so to speak.

A good and delicious fish soup doesn’t have to be an extravagant affair. Take this refreshingly light Chinese fish soup with chilli and coriander, far right; it uses lemon sole or plaice, some of the most frugal fish one can buy. The Provencal fish soup, right, calls for a mixture of fish, but if you wish, prudent pollock can be used instead.

Mussels are known for being easy on the purse strings, and happily they are not only great for us, but highly sustainable too. Let’s face it, who doesn’t love a big bowl of hot chowder — which has to be the ultimate comfort food to fix everything from a slight head cold to a mild case of heartbreak.

What is important is that the fish is as fresh as possible, and that it’s not overcooked. Consider these recipes as a formula, and vary the fish and shellfish depending on what you have available. Happy cooking.

“A good and delicious fish soup doesn’t have to be an extravagant affair”