Sunday Independent (Ireland)

Roll up for coffee, cakes and kisses

While a cup of coffee might not be for Rachel Allen first thing in the morning, when it comes as a dessert, she’ll have it at any time of day

- Photograph­y by Tony Gavin

It’s a well-known fact in our home that my husband Zac can’t speak or think straight until he’s had his daily intake of coffee. He makes it in the same way every morning — with a sieve, in an old and lovely Stephen Pearce jug — and drinks it out of a matching, if slightly cracked, cup; this is a silent ritual that never deviates.

It’s only now, after 28 years of knowing the man, that I am finally learning to wait until the end of cup number two to disturb the ceremonial caffeine routine with my morning-time verbal diarrhoea.

I personally love tea in the morning, as it’s a bit more of a ‘hug in a mug’ compared to coffee, which, for me, is like a slap in the face.

Come 10.30am, I am ready for that slap, with some hot milk on the side, please.

Coffee in desserts, however, I can handle, no matter what time of day it is. I love the way coffee brings a deep, roasted richness that balances sweetness so well.

This Irish coffee meringue roulade, right, is an old classic. It’s really good, and very simple to make. It can be baked and rolled earlier in the day if you wish; just cover it well and keep it in the fridge.

The coffee kisses, far right, are gorgeously sweet little biscuits sandwiched together with a rich coffee butter icing. Just perfect with that cup of tea or coffee.

Last, but not least, tiramisu — which literally means ‘pick me up’ or ‘cheer me up’ in Italian — will do just that.

Tiramisu consists of boudoir biscuits, also known as ladyfinger­s, which are soaked in coffee and brandy, and layered with a sweet vanilla custard, then topped with cocoa. The dish is a classic for good reason. I could almost eat it for breakfast… in silence, of course.

“I personally love tea in the morning as it’s a bit more of a hug in a mug compared to coffee”

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