Hidden treasures
WE arrive at Lyrath Estate just as the rain stops and the sun begins to peep through the clouds. Perfect timing. The car has been pounded by the kind of torrential rain that makes you want to pull in and check for dents. But we’re here now, the sun is shining, the Kilkenny countryside is sparkling green and we’re ready to explore.
Lyrath Estate is a large hotel and a busy spot but somehow it manages to maintain a nice sense of intimacy too. I think it’s largely thanks to the friendly staff and some lovely touches. We’re greeted at the entrance by two large golden retrievers. Our kids, being dog-less (not by choice), are excited but a little unsure. “Who owns these amazing dogs?” “Can we pet them?” “I don’t think I’ve seen a dog in a hotel before?” It turns out the two are permanent residents of the estate — Reilly and Ringo — and they are more than happy to indulge our dog-deprived children who have, eventually, to be dragged away. There’s more excitement when we check in to our comfortable family room and discover a teddy bear version of Reilly on each of their pillows. If they only sort-of wanted a puppy before, they definitely want one now.
Lyrath is a great spot for families. There’s plenty of room for the kids to run around but it’s still only five minutes from the city by car so it’s a great base for exploring. The hotel is set in 170 acres of mature parkland. There are lovely walks and the zip line and playground were a big hit. The hotel also runs a kids club during the school holidays with supervised activities that include cookery and slime making (of course!).
For the adults, there’s the award-winning Oasis spa plus a very nice pool and health centre. The food is also really good — we tried both the Yew Restaurant and the more casual The Grill bar and restaurant and both were top notch.
Next morning, after all the fun of a good hotel breakfast with children, we set out for the National Reptile Zoo, less than 15 minutes away in nearby Gowran. Once through the doors the kids were immediately won over. There’s an alligator — a large one — right there, so close you can almost touch him. There are snakes, spiders, tortoises, lizards, iguanas, locusts and lots more. The staff here clearly love these creatures and they really want you to love them too. As we’re among the first visitors of the day, we’re invited into the tropical habitat for feeding time, where the very knowledgeable Tara introduces us to the various inhabitants. Our favourite is Jagger — the oldest iguana in the zoo — wizened but still strutting and full of charm, like his namesake in the Rolling Stones. The Reptile Zoo really is a fabulous place.
I’d never heard of Dunmore Cave before, and it’s hard to believe that now. The cave has been known to man for centuries — first mentioned in the 9th Century Irish Triads — and it was the scene of a gruesome Viking massacre in 928. It’s an enormous, gaping bite out of the Kilkenny countryside that really does catch your breath when you see it.
The experience begins at the visitor centre where there’s a video guide to how the cave was formed and an exhibition area displaying archaeological finds. A clever feature is a touch-screen game for children where they have to answer questions using information displayed on the walls. It’s a simple thing but it did a great job of capturing their imaginations.
Then it’s on to the cave itself. Our guide, Johnny, has been working here for 27 years and knows every nook and cranny, literally. There isn’t a question he can’t answer. Walking carefully down the steps, surrounded by curtains of green and dripping water, is like walking into the middle of the earth. Johnny gives an entertaining tour, walking us through the various chambers, explaining the stalagmites and stalactites, the bats, the long history of the cave, and finally, the massacre, when Viking raiders murdered more than 1,000 locals, mostly women and children, on the spot where we were standing. As he tells the story he passes around one of the Viking coins discovered in the cave; it gives a remarkable sense of being close to something that happened so long ago.
After climbing back up to the daylight, we are starving, so it’s back into the city for lunch.
We can’t pass Cakeface Patisserie in Irishtown without taking a look inside. The display of cakes and desserts, all handmade, is a thing of beauty and we pick one each to take home for later.
Then it’s on to Mocha’s Vintage Tea Room — an enchanting spot located near McDonagh Junction. The walls are jam packed with vintage photos and interesting bits and bobs, and the display of cakes and treats as you enter is impossible to ignore.
Manager Edward Ronan is a man who seems born for the job he does. He knows his customers and how to keep them happy, and the place is buzzing; we arrive with a very cranky five-year-old, but within minutes the problem child has been cajoled and distracted and he’s smiling again and looking forward to his lunch.
Mocha’s Vintage Tea Room specialises in breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. The food is delicious, and there’s a good children’s menu with the kind of sensible options that parents will relish. Of course there are treats too — and lots of them — and the children are in their element. We leave relaxed and happy and ready to keep exploring.
Just around the corner is a real find. Art It is a wonderful airy space run by artist DiDi Dobree-Wilson that offers a walk-in art experience for all ages. American DiDi has been in Ireland since 1999, exhibiting her impressive paintings and teaching art classes. She is warm and engaging and has the patience of a saint, guiding even the most unartistic through simple processes to create impressive results.
After much agonising over what to do, the five-year-old opts to decorate a treasure chest while his big sister goes for a unicorn. We spend a lovely afternoon painting, glueing, and glittering. We found it a really lovely way to wind down and spend some time together — especially if the weather isn’t great. We leave a couple of hours later wishing DiDi would open a branch in Dublin.
Both unicorn and treasure chest now have pride of place on the mantelpiece at home — an apt reminder of a trip that had plenty of magic and hidden gems.