TAKE TWO Top attractions

Wines and nibbles

Serbia has hundreds of vineyards and every wine I sampled was very palatable, and I loved ajvar — a relish made from red pepper, garlic and aubergine, which is served with most meals (and makes a great gift).

Buzzing bars

Beton Hala is a buzzing area on the Sava River. During the day a stroll and lunch or coffee is a wonderful way to spend a few hours. At night the bars and restaurants are heaving and atmospheric.