New frontiers
This season’s designer fashion makes not only for strong, luscious editorials, but also real opportunity for gorgeous personal style statements and comfort in the wearing
With many big fashion houses doing collections and shows every six to eight weeks, and buying being done so far into the future, fashion seasons are truly blending. More and more, we are seeing what used be perceived as ‘winter’ territory on our summer rails, and vice versa. And it is working for us. One, we are getting more wear from our pieces. Two, spring/ summer (often faddish, event wear and holiday orientated) is now really good.
Brown Thomas Dublin is Ireland’s heavy-hitter when it comes to international designer names and the size of collections on offer. This, 2019, is one of its strongest spring/summer seasons.
Eras such as the 1960s serve to revive short lengths, modern prints and A-line shapes (Miu Miu); while the 1980s inspire utility and boiler suits (Stella McCartney); and the 1990s, razor-sharp shoulders, suits, black, white (Alexander McQueen) and OTT prints (Versace).
There are stunning, attention-grabbing threedimensional pieces in sheer volumes of fabrics (Dolce&Gabbana and Richard Quinn) and new textures such as pleating; raw-edge finishes; raffia.
The arm is the hot new trend, be it bare (Victoria Beckham) to covered with voluminous sleeves with deep cuffs (Zimmerman).
“There is a new lightness in feeling around,” explains Shelly Corkery, Brown Thomas’s fashion director. “It’s all about colour and femininity, even though utility is also a strong theme. The dress is queen; the jumpsuit is very relevant. Shorts are huge. The sleeve was a big focus.
She adds: “Trends such as ‘All Dolled Up’ and ‘All The Trimmings’ are about maximalism, but in a different way than before; this time, it is about glamorous sophistication. Minimalism is making a comeback. Tailoring continues, but it is changing. ‘Down to Earth’ with its hot earth tones, offers cool elegance. Valentino did it beautifully.”
A lot of people (me) shudder at the thought of minimalism, remembering it as monastic and androgynous. Shelly is quick to reassure me.
“Minimalism is feminine this time, with a lot of elegance in its simplicity and over-sizing,” she says.
I ask Shelly why she thinks minimalism is so strong for 2019.
“I think because Phoebe Philo stepped out of Celine and it was like there was a funeral all over the world,” she says. “People looked to see how they could continue to develop her aesthetic. So where can you get it? Well, you can definitely get it in Loewe. You can get it in Jil Sander. In Victoria Beckham.”
Bags and shoes, too, are innovative and exciting. White handbags, as well as conceptual and bucket shapes, are key, and new bag label, Cult Gaia brings freshness to the scene, as does Christian Louboutin’s footwear — one of his loveliest collections in years.