A Peruvian adventure
TRAVEL WRITER CLODAGH DOOLEY HIKES THE LEGENDARY INCA TRAIL IN PERU, SOUTH AMERICA WITH SUNWAY, AND LEARNS A FEW THINGS ABOUT THE CULTURE AND HERSELF ALONG THE WAY
Travel writer Clodagh Dooley hikes the legendary Inca Trail in Peru, South America with Sunway, and learns a few things about the culture and herself along the way
1 00 steep steps to climb and we would finally make it to Sun Gate, once the main entrance to the famous Incan citadel Machu Picchu. Machu Picchu was believed to be an estate for the Inca Emperor Pachacuti, before the Incan civilisation was wiped out by Spanish invaders in the 16th century.
Sun Gate was where we would get our first glimpse of Machu Picchu from afar, provided the fog cleared to reveal the site to us. “You can do it, Haku*!” our guide Nick chanted as we came to the final leg of the four-day Inca Trail
My heart was pounding in my chest, both as a result of the hike I had done so far and the fear of climbing the narrow, steep steps ahead of me. My mouth was dry, my t-shirt damp, and thighs sore – but this was it, I had nearly completed the Inca Trail, a total of 42km across four days. Would I make it the rest of the way without passing out? And, would I even get to see Machu Picchu if the fog didn’t clear?
TRAVELLING SOLO
Back in November 2019, I booked the trip to Peru through Ireland’s leading travel company Sunway. I travelled to Peru’s capital Lima, and it was in Lima where I would be meeting the G Adventures tour group joining me on the trek to Machu Picchu.
I felt nervous. I had travelled solo many times before, but as hiking and camping with strangers in a different country would be a completely new challenge, I really didn’t know what to expect. Or, indeed if I would survive – both the hike itself and being four days without any signal on my phone!
But when I met with the group – people from a variety of destinations including the UK, Canada and Australia – we clicked instantly and I soon switched off from life outside of Peru. Everyone had their own personal reasons for doing the trail, and I was surprised that so many of the group had travelled solo too. That’s what makes an escorted group trip so great: although you’re travelling solo, you’re guaranteed to make new friends from around the world and meet like-minded people. We certainly all shared a love for the Peruvian cocktail Pisco Sours anyway, which we found out that first night!
The next day, we travelled on an hour flight to Cusco, a city in the magnificent Peruvian Andes and once the capital of the Inca Empire. Cusco is located 3,399m above sea level, so to help prevent altitude sickness, some of us chewed coca leaves, a remedy the Incas once used. (I can confirm, coca does not help with hangovers, but it can with altitude sickness!)
We had a day to explore Cusco, visiting main sites including Plaza de Armas (the square in the old city), before our guide, Nick, briefed us on everything we needed to know about embarking on the Inca Trail. Because the next day, we would be leaving our main suitcases behind in Cusco and travelling onto Ollantaytambo (a village in the Sacred Valley) with just our camping essentials.
GETTING TO KNOW LOCAL CULTURE
En-route to Ollantaytambo, a little less than two hours away from Cusco, we had the opportunity to see beautiful views including that of Sacred Valley itself. But what was probably most striking, were the visits we paid to the Ccaccaccollo Women’s Weaving Co-Op, the rural village of Cuyo Chico and the Parwa Community Restaurant in the small village of Huchuy Qosqo. This gave us a true taste of Peruvian culture. G Adventures are committed to sustainable tourism and developed many initiatives that help to support these local communities.
For example, at Ccaccaccollo, local women showed us the traditional methods they used to produce textiles made from llama and alpaca wool. It was fascinating to watch their natural dyeing techniques, including using beetle blood to dye wool red. We all stocked up on scarves, hats and jumpers to bring on the trek and home for the winter!
In Cuyo Chico, we were given a pottery demonstration by a group of families who had created a business together, and we had the opportunity to purchase some handmade souvenirs. Meanwhile, a delicious traditional dinner was served at Parwa, a farm-to-table program that boosts the local economy. These visits were eye-openers and it was such a heart-warming feeling to know that I was contributing, even in a small way, to keep these communities alive.
THE INCA TRAIL
Waking early the next day in Ollantaytambo, I said my farewells to my friends and family back home on WhatsApp, as I parted with the internet before the hike. On the way to the Inca Trail starting point, a 40-minute bus journey from Ollantaytambo, my stomach was in a knot. Once there, the local G Adventure porters took away our bigger bags (containing our sleeping bags and other items we wouldn’t need during the hike) which they would be carrying along the trail for us, while we held onto our own day bags. We then got our passports stamped and set forth on the trail.
We passed along meandering streams, taking in the Andean scenery and ancient Incan ruins, such as Llactapata, and the butterflies in my stomach gradually eased off. Until suddenly, we were going up and up, and before I knew it, I was panting heavily, gasping for air. Out-of-breath, I started to worry if I would be able to go on for the rest of the trail, but tried to focus on anything else other than how tough it was. The group atmosphere was a help, we all motivated
each other to continue on slowly.
Approximately five hours later (11km hike), we reached our first campsite to a round of applause from the porters. A wave of exhilaration swept over me. After freshening up, it was dinnertime. Lunch and dinner were delicious three-course meals each day, cooked by the G Adventure chefs using local produce. So, whatever weight I was losing during the hike, was going straight back on in the evening! With full bellies, we tried to get some shut-eye for the night, as heavy rain drops began pelting onto our two-man tents. We had a big day ahead of us – taking on Dead Woman’s Pass, not a very encouraging name!
DEAD WOMAN’S PASS
The rain poured down as we woke early and pulled on our rain jackets for the second day. At 4,215m, Dead Woman’s Pass is the highest point of the Inca Trail and gets its name because its crests resemble the form of a woman’s supine body when seen from the valley below. This day was a challenge, not just because the terrain becomes much rockier, but also because of the weather conditions. The sun did appear as we got closer to the top, but unfortunately when we eventually reached the top, the rain started again. So, photographs with the beautiful valley in the background were out of the question.
While overcoming the pass was a celebration in itself, what goes up must come down. The steps down to camp are much steeper and with rain, extremely slippery and dangerous. I thought going uphill was a challenge – this was much trickier! Over two hours later, we reached our next campsite and I never felt as happy to see my tent.
Another delicious evening meal, some laughs and a night’s rest later, and it was the third day. I had made it this far. The ninehour hike to our next camp seemed a cinch compared to the other two days. I felt more relaxed and focused on taking in the beautiful views and ruins. On our last night of the hike, we spent some time getting to know the porters and chefs. They really made the trip for us as they looked after us very well, as did our guide. We had an early start ahead of us, so we said our goodnights and retreated to our tents.
MACHU PICCHU
It was around 3.30am when we heard the regular wake-up calls of the porters. We packed our bags for the last time, ate a light breakfast and waited an hour at the checkpoint nearby for the gate to open. As the fog caved in around us, we trekked through the rocky terrain, but the next two hours went quickly – there was a sense of excitement among the group, as we were getting nearer and nearer to our final destination. We reached the 100 steps to Sun Gate, and as I looked up, I paused, took a deep breath and began to climb.
At the top, a crowd of other hikers stood awaiting. The sky was a vivid blue but the fog was still dense. Until it started to shift and slowly, Machu Picchu came to light. There it was, right in front of me. We all stood in complete awe at the magnificent sight. It seemed very surreal.
But it wasn’t simply the fact that I was looking at Machu Picchu, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It was also the fact that I had completed the hike; that sense of achievement. There were moments when I was frustrated, tired and felt like I couldn’t do it. But I learned to shut out the negative voice and, instead, live in the moment. And this is something I’ve brought back home with me. In the words of American historian and activist Miriam Beard, “Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” This is true of my experience in Peru.
After a wonderful guided tour around Machu Picchu (a 40-minute hike away from Sun Gate), and a final night spent with the group, I was sad to say goodbye. Peru was truly a life-changing trip and I would recommend to anybody considering hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, to book with Sunway. The organisation of the entire trip from start to finish was impressive and they helped to arrange everything, from the accommodation and flights, to the tour itself. It was an experience I will treasure forever.