The social drinker

Cinsault is a grape variety that it not well known in this part of the world, but is popular in South Africa, Australia, Corsica, Lebanon, North Africa and Israel — any place, in fact, where there is often drought.

If it were a car, it would probably be something like a Dacia Duster — an under-rated workhorse from an unusual part of the world that offers value for money, but struggles among those who value prestige labels.

Tesco has an excellent 2018 Cinsault for €9 in its Finest range, which is worth seeking out if you want to spruce up a stew, duck, some Easter lamb, pate or pork.

Cinsault (pronounced sin-saw) is particularly good for making rosés and early drinking reds, such as the aforementioned pure example from Tesco, although it is more often mixed with other grape types.

Cinsault originally came from France and Corsica, where it was popular for its light skin, soft perfume and low alcohol levels. In recent years, it has been eclipsed in France by other grapes, although it is making something of a comeback because it is easier to pick mechanically than types such as Grenache.

While it has been in decline within Europe for much of the past 50 years, Cinsault has gained in popularity in South Africa. In the early 1900s, the grape was blended with Pinot Noir to create Pinotage — the grape variety that has a beguiling hint of decay. In America, Cinsault was exported to California back in the 1860s where it was called Black Malvoisie, although it is usually referred to today as Cinsault.

If want to try Cinsault as a rosé, head to SuperValu, which has the good but expensive Whispering Angel (€30), pictured right, which is made from Cinsault along with Grenache, Rolle, Syrah and Tibouren.