Creating peace when a new pet joins your crew
Last week, I wrote about the worries that people often have when they get a new puppy. A reader has contacted me with an extra question: they have an older dog, and they want to get a new puppy. But hey worry about how the dog will cope with the new puppy intruding on his territory. They asked me if I could write something about the best way to avoid problems in this type of situation.
I have witnessed this scenario on many occasions, and in most cases, everything works out well. Animals are, in general, good at learning how to relate to each other, and they tend to naturally work towards social equilibrium. Conflict is not good for either side.
However, in a minority of cases, there can be serious social problems, and some simple planning can reduce the likelihood of these developing.
The first step is to consider the social situation before you actually get a new pet. Is your existing pet a social animal? Do they enjoy the company of other pets?
If your dog is a loner who shows aggression whenever they see other dogs, then you may be wise to avoid getting another dog. I remember one case of a ten year old male dog who had always been the only animal in the home. He was beginning to show some signs of slowing down with age, and his owner thought that a new puppy might be a way of stimulating him to be more active. And indeed, this can be a good idea in many situations. However, the older dog was used to having his entire territory to himself, and when the puppy arrived, he reacted very badly indeed. He was aggressive to the pup, trying to attack it. And despite every precaution they took to make gradual, sensitive introductions, the old dog reverted to aggression. They ended up needing to split their house into two, with the dogs never being in the same room. With hindsight, it would have been wiser to consider the situation more carefully in advance: the old dog did not know any other dogs well, and had always been intolerant of the presence of other animals. For this situation, it would have worked better to have simply kept him as a solo dog until the end of his days.
Most dogs are more flexible than this, and most dogs learn to adapt to others. But in every case, it makes sense to carry out introductions carefully and gradually, to reduce the risk of conflict.
Introductions should be started outside, on neutral territory, with each dog on a leash, a long way from each other. It’s best to have a long leash that can be drawn shorter, so that the dog can be given controlled freedom. The person handling each dog should have tasty treats in a small bag (my favourite is boiled sausages, chopped into 1cm lengths: most dogs love these). The dogs should be walked within sight of the other, and as long as they stay calm and relaxed, they should be praised and given occasional treats. In particular, when they look at the other dog without reacting, they should be rewarded.
The dog handlers should carefully watch the dogs’ body language: this is how dogs communicate.
If they start to look tense or nervous (hackles going up, grimacing, growling, staring at each other) then you should back off, and try again another day. If they remain relaxed and at ease, then you can move the dogs closer to each other, continuing to reward them.
Continue to monitor their interactions, and with luck, they will continue to be positive, even wanting to play with each other.
The key is to do this gradually, over a few occasions, backing off any time there is tension or fear. Let the dogs choose the pace of their interactions: observing their body language is important.
Once they are engaging in a relaxed in this neutral outdoor environment, you can start the introductions at home. It can help to have a baby gate between two rooms at first, so that they can smell each other, see each other and hear each other without direct contact. Again, reinforce calm behaviour when they interact visually and nose to nose, by giving treats and praise.
Once this is going well, you can remove the gate, continuing to observe and monitor carefully, and continuing to reward both dogs for good behaviour.
You should remember that conflict is more likely to happen in certain situations, and at first, you should keep the dogs separate on these occasions. Examples include the presence of high value resources and high-energy situations (e.g. if the doorbell rings, a stranger arrives, and there is a noisy hubbub of human activity). My two dogs, who generally get along very well, still get into occasional fights if a bowl of especially tasty food is placed between them, or if one dog is in an especially comfy bed beside a heater, and the other one tries to get into it beside them.
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, conflict can still occur, and when that happens, it’s best to consult with a good dog trainer or behaviourist. Dog to dog aggression in a home can be very difficult to solve: I have witnessed some situations where the only answer has been to rehome one of the dogs. That’s why it’s so important to assess the situation in advance, and to proceed cautiously and gradually.