NEPAL rises from the ruins
Jennifer Cox discovers a magical nation teeming with life as it recovers from its devastating earthquake
IT IS nearly 18 months since Nepal suffered its worst natural disaster in nearly a century – a devastating earthquake that killed more than 8,000 people and destroyed ancient villages.
The effect on tourism has been equally shattering: visitor numbers are estimated to be down by twothirds as uncertainty lingers over the condition of attractions such as trekking trails in the Himalayas and Kathmandu’s prized sites.
Although there’s no denying the impact of the earthquake, it was a wonderful relief to discover that the vast majority of Nepal’s attractions are largely intact. As my husband Nick and I wandered through the elegant courtyards of the 17th century Hanuman Dhoka palace in Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, we were stunned at every turn by artistry and beauty.
Durbar Square is the heart of ancient Kathmandu and it teems with life, colour and fascinating traditions: from the Kumari Devi, a living child-goddess housed in the Kumari Bahal temple, to women selling butter lamps.
At Boudhanath, Nepal’s biggest stupa, we joined pilgrims walking clockwise around the temple, its huge spherical base inset with intricately embossed prayer wheels.
It’s impossible not to be moved at the sight of monks on their kora, chanting as they make offerings of rice, flowers and incense.
Early the next morning we left the crowded streets of Kathmandu behind for an eight-hour drive to Chitwan National Park.
Judged one of the best national parks in Asia, Chitwan’s sprawling 350 square miles of (malaria-free) rainforests, grass and marshlands are a haven for rhinos, elephants, leopards, sloth-bears and tigers. We stayed at Machan Country Villa, a small collection of well-appointed jungle lodges supported by a great cook and knowledgeable rangers. Thanks to chief ranger Ram, we now know that more than 546 species of birds – from serpent eagles to red-headed cormorants – live in this jungle.
Early the next morning, as we set off on an elephant safari through meadows, the lush countryside looked strangely familiar – until a monkey leapt from a tree directly above our heads and scampered off into the canopy.
A hornbill hooted indignantly, and a macaw shrieked in agreement. But our guide urged us to look ahead at two grazing rhinos. Our elephant decided to investigate further, and we clung to the howdah saddle as she lumbered up a steep bank, plunged through trees and sent brightly coloured butterflies billowing in every direction.
Our sunset safari was equally thrilling: a jeep ride to the beautiful Narayani River. We weren’t lucky enough to spot one of the 125 Bengal tigers in Chitwan, but canoeing down the river at sunset, as crocodiles basked on muddy banks, could not have been more atmospheric.
It was time to head north to Nepal’s unofficial trekking capital, Pokhara. We stayed 20 minutes outside at Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge, in a bungalow offering spectacular views of the Himalayas.
We’d heard beforehand how friendly the locals were, and we experienced that first-hand while driving back from Pokhara.
Spotting a colourful wedding, Nick asked if he could photograph the beautiful bride in her red wedding sari. Not only did she say yes, but she invited us to join the party.
The whole experience was magical – and just one reason why we should be heading to Nepal in our droves.