18TH-CENTURY CHESTNUT STUFFING

This recipe is adapted from one I first came across in the cookery book written in 1747 by Hannah Glasse. Peeling chestnuts is a chore at the best of times, but with the pressures of Christmas it can seem even more tiresome. Frozen peeled or vacuum-packed chestnuts will make life easier.

Makes enough for a 5.5kg-6.5kg (12lb 2oz-14lb 5oz) turkey.

450g (1lb) frozen peeled chestnuts, defrosted (or vac-packed), very finely chopped 1 large onion, finely chopped 110g (4oz) smoked streaky bacon, finely chopped The liver from the turkey, chopped small 25g (1oz) butter 225g (8oz) best-quality pork sausagemeat or finely minced pure pork 4 tablespoons chopped parsley 1 dessertspoon chopped thyme ¼ teaspoon ground mace Seasoning Melt the butter in a large frying-pan and cook the onion, bacon and chopped turkey liver for 10 minutes or so, until the onion is transparent and everything is tinged gold at the edges. Now tip the contents of the pan into a large mixing bowl and add all the remaining ingredients. Season and mix very thoroughly.

NOTE If you like your stuffing firm, so that it cuts in slices, add a beaten egg to bind it. If, like me, you prefer it crumbly, leave the egg out. Also, if you are making it on Christmas Eve, remember to remove the stuffing from the fridge before you go to bed – it shouldn’t be too chilled before you put it into the turkey.