UNCOVER THE MORE RELAXED SIDE OF PARTY ISLE IBIZA
WHEN we told our twentysomething son that we were going on holiday to Ibiza, his immediate reaction was: ‘But you don’t go clubbing!’
It’s the reaction we got from friends too. Many have the image of the island as one big nightclub, with techno music blaring out at all hours, and the streets full of raucous, drunken party-goers.
But there is another, quieter and much calmer Ibiza, a place where insects and not DJs still make the nighttime music, and the only clubs you’ll find are at the local crazy golf course.
Our brochure had told us that everything that drew people to the island in the first place – the unspoilt countryside, the stunning sea views and the laid-back atmosphere – could still be found in the resort of Portinatx on the north coast.
When my wife Zsuzsanna and I arrived at our hotel, the Presidente, after a 40-minute coach ride from the airport (which involved climbing steep mountain roads for the last stretch), we already felt we’d come to somewhere remote. Our room looked out across the bay, providing a beautiful panorama of pine-covered slopes, clear, blue sea, and sailing boats.
There was thankfully plenty of time for us to enjoy the views on offer from our room and the hotel terrace. The extended meal times at the Presidente meant we never had to rush anywhere.
Food was served from a buffet bar – even the wine and beer were selfservice. There was a wide choice of dishes every day and the quality varied from very good to excellent. S’Arenal Gros, the main beach, was
just a five-minute walk down a steep road.
The setting was idyllic – a stretch of soft, light golden sand with a backdrop of hills and forests. The sea was warm and shallow for quite a distance, making it absolutely perfect for swimming and paddling.
In Portinatx, we found just a few tourist shops, cafés and bars. The fact that there wasn’t a huge amount to do – apart from play on one of the most fiendishly difficult crazy golf courses ever designed – suited us down to the ground. A fellow guest told us she last visited Portinatx and the Presidente 40 years ago with her mother and was amazed how little had changed. There was, indeed, a distinctly retro feel about the place, which we really loved.
The theme tune from the 1959 film A Summer Place played in the hotel lounge. Entertainment began each evening with bingo, followed by the sort of acts you would have seen regularly on television in the 1960s and 1970s. Our favourite was Alexis the Magician, who performed illusions with his assistant Christina – the children in the front row, and adults further back, were all enchanted by his tricks.
As our week came to an end, Portinatx, we reflected, wouldn’t suit those who like to keep busy on their holidays. But for those wanting a temporary respite from the hurly-burly of the modern world, the ‘other’ Ibiza is el destino perfecto.