A SEA SIDE CITY THAT IS SIMPLY BURSTING WITH CHARACTER
In this column two weeks ago, and merely in passing, I mentioned Cadiz. And some readers, it seems, would like to know more.
What’s it like? Is it easy to get to? Is there a good choice of accommodation? Is it somewhere that you would spend a full summer holiday?
Well, it’s certainly a city that I have visited on a few occasions and one that has always left me wanting to return. It has a modern ‘strip’ right alongside one of the beaches but I have never really spent much time there. Rather I have always based myself in or close to the old quarter where the atmospheric streets, the profusion of tapas bars, the lovely cathedral and La Caleta beach are all magnets for visitors and locals alike.
It’s a seaside city that is bursting with character. A bit faded and peeling in parts, it has a laid-back air and a day-to-day rhythm that is so redolent of this part of Spain.
And this part of Spain is, specifically, the lovely Costa de la Luz, the coastline that stretches from Tarifa right along the Atlantic and up towards the Portuguese border. Not as full-on as the Costa del Sol in summer, it offers a bit of welcome respite while also offering everything that you need in a summer sun holiday.
Is Cadiz easy to get to? Well, during the summer you can fly direct from Dublin to Seville with Ryanair, three times a week at the height of the season and twice a week in the early and late holiday period. From Seville there is a bus service to Cadiz or, my preferred option – the train. This is a direct service city to city, is reasonably priced, and takes about an hour and a half.
Another option is to fly (not direct from Ireland, unfortunately) into Jerez de la Frontera. This is closer than Seville and a lovely spot in its own right. If you are arriving for a week or longer, it’s an ideal stopover point for a night. From Jerez you can get to Cadiz by public transport in around half an hour.
Generally, however, having a car is a real plus here. You can use Cadiz as a base, get to know the city, but also explore the lovely Costa de la Luz with its beautiful unspoilt beaches and its low-key resorts, many of them merely fishing villages with notions.
In Cadiz itself there is plenty of accommodation. I have stayed in the Parador hotel there (it’s in a terrific location) and have also rented an apartment in the old quarter through the homeaway. co.uk website.
And when it comes to eating out you really are spoilt for choice. El Faro is a great restaurant and there are numerous tapas bar scattered all around the old quarter. My favourite when I last visited was Bar Manteca. It’s small, with only a few tables, so everyone stands huddled together at the bar. Located just a couple of streets in from the coast road that runs from Caleta beach round the headland to the golden-domed cathedral, Manteca is owned by the sons of a famous matador and the memorabilia on the walls bears testament to that. And there’s a portrait of Franco, too. But it’s hanging upside down, of course. This is lefty Cadiz, after all.
So would I recommend this fascinating, laid-back, foody, atmospheric city for a summer holiday? The answer is a very definite yes.