World’s your oyster... so let’s join the feast!
Been there, going there!
It might not be quite up there with Spiaggia, the Italian fine dining restaurant in Chicago so beloved of the Obamas, but when Leo Varadkar pitched up at Barcocina in Chicago recently (and despite the fact that Irish waitress Emma Kelly didn’t recognise the Taoiseach!) he appeared to enjoy his dining experience, nonetheless.
Now it would be foolish to suggest that you should go to Chicago for the food because it is such a fantastic city on so many other levels but, I have to confess, when I think about my trip there, the food is one of the things that still springs to mind. Simply because it was so varied.
Yes, we actually ate in Spiaggia, where the tasting menu was utterly sublime, but when I think back now, I realise that it’s the lower-key places that left a stronger impression. Particularly Shaw’s Oyster Bar where the waiter painstakingly explained to my oyster-loving husband the precise provenance of each of the dozen oysters on his plate. Not being an oyster lover, I opted for crab cake and tucked into the best one I’ve ever eaten in my life.
Food, for me, would never define any trip and I’d certainly never sacrifice doing or seeing something because of a restaurant booking. But I have had a few memorable dining experiences over the years. So here, for all kinds of reasons and in no particular order, are 10 of the best.
1) L’ACCHIARDO, NICE
Great fourth-generation family restaurant in the Old Town, frequented by locals and tourists. Busy and bustling. Expect to wait – even if you have a reservation. Great beef daube and fish stew.
2) THE COURTYARD, AMERICAN COLONY HOTEL, JERUSALEM
Beautiful setting for a restaurant once favoured by the likes of Graham Greene, Winston Churchill and TE Lawrence (of Arabia fame). What stays with me is their mezze – a dazzling array of delightful dishes. And the elegant, candlelit atmosphere on a balmy night in early summer.
3) SABATINI, ROME
Situated close to the church on Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. Long-established, with older waiters who have worked here for years. Food is grand (although not cheap). People-watching is fantastic. First went here for a special-occasion dinner in the late autumn of 2002, and we were tucked away inside on a corner table. Have been back again for lunch in summer – dining out on the terrace. A great place to while away an afternoon.
4) DJEMAA EL-FNA, MARRAKECH
Terrific experience here, moving from food stall to food stall in the city’s famous square. With the dining area set up from scratch every evening, the cooks are all pristine in their ‘whites’. This is cheap, simple food. And the smells are intoxicating. A dining experience you’ll never forget.
5) LE BRISTOL, PARIS
Now, this was posh. It was here, in the gorgeous restaurant of the five-star Bristol hotel (near the Champs-Élysées) that I first encountered one of those stools, specifically positioned for madam’s handbag! The food was, well, very French – and exquisite. And, surprisingly, the service was friendly and not at all stuffy. Prices mean it’s serious celebration territory.
6) SOSTANZA, FLORENCE
A recent discovery for me, this small restaurant down a back street not far from the River Arno is one I’ll make a beeline for when I’m next in Florence. Nothing fancy here – just long tables, a handwritten menu and some of the best Tuscan cooking you’ll ever taste. The buttered chicken is their signature dish. If I found myself on death row, I’d be wanting it for my last supper.
6) AL MUNTAHA, BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI
The French cuisine – although lovely – is secondary here. It’s all about the views. I was here for lunch when the ‘Palm’ and ‘World’ islands were under construction and I’ll never forget the vista from this 27th floor perspective, through a ‘wall’ of window glass, right out across the Persian Gulf. Breathtaking (and the only thing I liked, actually, about the oh-sofamous Burj hotel.)
8) 1703 GOD, ST PETERSBURG
Bizarre name – but lovely oldworld restaurant, with good food and within walking distance of St Isaac’s Cathedral. I remember ordering borscht for the first time and a lovely beef dish. There was a small wedding party
ensconced in one corner that night. I also recall Mary Hopkin’s rendition of Those Were The Days playing on repeat – something that greatly amused us because we were there just six years after the break-up of the Soviet Union!
9) CASA DEL ABUELO, MADRID
Not a ‘going out for dinner’ place. Rather a ‘stand at the bar for tapas’ place, on a street near Plaza de Santa Ana. I’ve been here many times and it never disappoints. A bit spit-and-sawdust, they only serve prawn tapas. And the wine is their own label – white or red. No other option. Brilliant!
10) CIHANNUMA, ISTANBUL
Located on the top floor of a threestar hotel in the Sultanahmet district. It’s not pricey, the food is good – the mezze were fantastic, as was the lamb – and the service terrific. It also offers rooftop views over Istanbul. My windowtable view of the floodlit Blue Mosque that night is etched in my memory. Stunning.