The best kind of Cliff hanger
Perched above the meeting point of the Irish Sea and the Atlantic, Waterford’s Cliff House Hotel offers five-star luxury, and endless tranquility await in west Waterford
Each morning when I awoke in our suite at the glorious Cliff House Hotel I was reminded of an ocean cruise experience. The Cliff House clings, as the name suggests, to a cliff. The unique geographical arrangement of the Terrace Suite we stayed in, when you opened the curtain, made you feel as though you were in the middle of Ardmore Bay.
It is an indescribably calming experience to start your day surrounded by ocean. And that is how one feels at the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, West Waterford.
The Cliff House is a small, luxury hotel that offers all the amenities one gets with a five star, but can add the exceptional location to make it what I thought was the finest hotel break I’ve had in Ireland.
The hotel advertises its proximity to Youghal, Cork and Waterford, but I didn’t feel the need to wander far from the cliff, and certainly not Ardmore.
When you’re staying in a hotel with a Michelin star restaurant there is no need to venture out looking for better eateries. The House Restaurant, with chef Martijn Kajuiter, is world famous.
Considering the prestigious rating, it is reasonable. There is a four-course a la carte menu for €85, a four-course winetasting menu for €42, and a tasting menu for €95.
Over the period of our stay, I tried Irish rose veal and Irish seabass, which was spectacular.
We had a little one with us so we ate more frequently in the bar, which offers an almost equally fabulous menu – and views. The dining areas look north east over Ardmore Bay.
The impeccable attention to the nautical feeling of the hotel continues in the indoor infinity-edge swimming pool. The hotel brochure explains it best: ‘The ocean views create a sense of unending space, as if the pool is merging into the Irish Sea.’
Outside, they have a natural rock pool which can be enjoyed at full tide for those who want an invigorating swim. I’m a summer Irish Sea swimmer, but many aren’t.
There are indoor heated jacuzzis and a relaxation terrace with two stone baths, allowing you to benefit from the refreshing sea air in comfort and warmth.
Ardmore is at the meeting of the Irish Sea and the Atlantic and has an unusually remote feel to it, despite its proximity to Cork and Waterford.
I’ve only got to know Waterford well in latter years because my wife is from there. In the past, when I had spent holiday time away from my native Dublin, I had done it almost exclusively in the west of Ireland.
Although the west retains its magic, I find towns like Westport, Clifden, Lahinch and Ballybunion extremely overcrowded in the summer months. They have become victims of their justified popularity.
Ardmore has the Irish village atmosphere of another time, and lacks the tackiness that has crept into some of our holiday areas. It is also much quieter and has only one pub.
The Wild Atlantic Way may have improved the signposting in the west, but it hasn’t improved the roads (although I do understand that mountain roads can’t be expected to be highways).
This part of Waterford is more accessible. Certainly if you’re coming from Cork, Tipperary or Waterford City it is very close by, but the road from Dublin is very good. The trip from my home is under three hours – quality roads all the way.
Ardmore has its own beach which is only a short walk from the hotel – the little harbour too offers safe summer swims.
Bicycles are provided and most days I took a ride up to Ballyquin Beach. It is down a boreen and little-known except to locals. But it was almost deserted in July and with its golden beaches framed by small fields it is places like this give west Waterford its gloriously secluded feel.
Ballyquin, being off the beat, has no lifeguards but Ardmore beach does and it is perfect for children (it is also delightfully free of amusement arcades and tack).
We brought the youngest, who was a baby last summer, so we weren’t worried about activities for children.
However, if you’re seeking family fun there are now the Cliff Cottages if you want a high-end self-catering holiday.
I’ve had a look, and the cottages are sumptuous, with three large bedrooms – one double with en suite, one double and one twin – and offer accommodation for up to six adults, with additional space for children.
And, of course, you have all the facilities of the Cliff House Hotel just steps away.
THE LOCATION MADE THIS THE FINEST HOTEL BREAK I HAVE HAD IN IRELAND