Go nuts for Brazil
It has a rich and colourful history, style, glamour – and legendary beaches. So, says Emily Perry, let’s...
As Frank Sinatra once sang, they’ve got an awful lot of coffee in Brazil. But then Brazil has an awful lot of everything: it’s roughly the same size as the United States and slightly larger than Australia – not something you always appreciate from a quick glance at the map.
What’s more surprising is that while many travellers are familiar with the lesser-known parts of Australia or the US, tourism to Brazil remains largely rooted to a Rio, Sao Paulo, Iguazu Falls triangle.
Brazil experts, however, would argue that there are even richer treats for the visitor in the north-east of the country.
Historically, this is the area that first attracted the interests of the early European explorers and settlers.
When the Portuguese and Spanish drew a line to divide what they thought was the extent of South America, they could hardly have guessed how big the country actually was (the Portuguese got Brazil while Spain ended up with everything else).
Venturing to Salvador, the capital of the state of Bahia, is quite a trek – it’s a journey of more than 1,600km but well worth the effort. This was the first city in Brazil and its first capital.
In the old town, you will be amazed to discover a rich array of fabulous buildings in a style that reminded me of the streets of Lisbon. Most amazing are the many baroque churches with interiors fashioned from gold plate, and houses painted in almost every shade of pastel. While there are glimpses of Europe, you will also see much of Africa: the country’s African heritage is strongest here – seen in the rich, spicy cooking and the carnival beat of the drum-troupe orchestras.
Fine hotels include the Villa Bahia situated in the Pelourinho district and built in glorious colonial style: some rooms have four-poster beds and claw-footed baths where you can feel like Indiana Jones ready to tackle the Amazon jungle.
If it’s a sun-and-sand holiday you’re after, head 500 miles further north to Recife, capital of Brazil’s north-eastern state, Pernambuco, a place of languorous rivers, lovely islets and away-from-it-all peninsulas. Start by visiting Recife Antigo – ‘Old Recife’ on its own island near the harbour – the heart of the city’s burgeoning music and alternative culture scene.
There are some fine historic buildings in the old town centre, which dates back to the 16th century. Even more alluring, however, is the fabulous Boa Viagem Beach, which lies about four miles south of town. The five-mile promenade, lined with high-rise buildings, is also a very desirable area attracting a well-heeled crowd. Boa Viagem is reckoned to be the longest stretch of urban seafront in Brazil; the off-shore coastal reef calms the waves and helps maintain the sea water at a very comfortable 25C.
Not surprisingly, this is one of the most popular beaches in South America, probably attracting more people than the better-known Copacabana beach further south.
This is where the people of Recife come to socialise: it has one of the biggest shopping centres in Brazil.
Most of Recife’s best hotels are in Boa Viagem, as well as many outdoor cafes and a lively nightclub scene.
Every night, Boa Viagem beach is lit up, allowing bathers to swim under the stars and attracting many young people.
THE COASTAL REEF CALMS THE WAVES AND KEEPS SEA AT 25C