CHRISTMAS PUDDING
The serving of the pudding is a high point of Christmas celebrations – a moment of drama that everyone remembers year after year from their earliest childhood. Traditionally a sprig of holly decorates the top as a reminder of the Crown of Thorns. At Highclere, our head chef Paul pours warmed brandy over and sets it alight as he rounds the corner from the servery, bearing it into the dining room to applause. The flames seem to take us back into the realms of folklore.
Serves 8
● 400g (14oz) mixed dried fruit
● 150g (5½oz) sultanas
● 100g (3½oz) currants
● 40g (1½oz) dried figs, roughly chopped
● 30g (1oz) glacé cherries
● 10g (¼oz) crystallised ginger
● 40g (1½oz) candied peel
● 125ml (4fl oz) Madeira wine
● 75g (3oz) self-raising flour
● 150g (5½oz) soft light brown sugar
● ½tsp mixed spice
● A pinch of salt
● Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon and 1 unwaxed orange
● 50g (1¾oz) blanched almonds, chopped
● 30g (1oz) grated carrot
● 75g (3oz) fresh breadcrumbs
● 150g (5½oz) suet
● 1 egg, beaten
● 1tbsp golden syrup
● 125ml (4fl oz) rum
● 125ml (4fl oz) stout
● 75ml (2½fl oz) milk
● 4-5 coins wrapped in silver foil (add later if making well in advance, see recipe)
Pile all the dried fruit, ginger and peel into a mixing bowl. Pour the Madeira over and cover with clingfilm. Leave to soak overnight.
The next morning, mix together the flour, light brown sugar, mixed spice, salt, zests, almonds, carrot and breadcrumbs in a mixing bowl. Gradually stir in the suet, beaten egg and golden syrup, then pour in the rum, stout and milk. Rope in as many people as possible to stir everything up. Everyone should turn the wooden spoon around in a clockwise direction, from east to west, making a wish as they do so. Finally, add the soaked fruit and keep stirring. Taste and add whatever you feel it needs.
Carefully grease a 1.5kg pudding basin and spoon the mixture in so it is three-quarters full. Push the wrapped coins in, if adding at this stage. Cut a round of greaseproof paper to fit the top, then place it on and wrap the pudding bowl in foil to ensure it is watertight. Tie with string around the rim, then tie string across the top as a handle. Half fill a large pan with boiling water. Add the pudding (the water should come part way up the side of the pudding basin but not cover it) and bring back up to the boil. Cover with a lid and simmer for 4 hours, checking the water level regularly. Always top up with hot water so as not to interrupt the cooking time. Take the pan off the heat. Check the pudding is cooked by inserting a skewer through the foil and paper. If it comes out clean, it is done; if not, return to the heat. Allow to cool and store in a pantry or cool place until Christmas Day.
When you want to serve, remove the pudding from the pantry and simmer for 1½ hours, as above, to warm it through. When ready, carefully turn the bowl upside down onto a plate and slide off the basin. If you didn’t do so when making the pudding, push a few foil-wrapped coins well into the pudding. If you want to set the pudding alight, warm 1tbsp of brandy over a gas cooker flame, or a candle on the table. At the last moment, tip the spoon towards the flame so the fumes catch light and quickly pour the flames over the pudding. Serve with large dollops of brandy butter (see tip across the bottom of the page).