Desert island drinks to enjoy at Christmas
Jay Rayner, trenchant restaurant critic of The Guardian and the man who hosts the excellent Out To Lunch podcast, published a book last year called My Last Supper. The title is self-explanatory, and it’s a most entertaining read — this man can sure write.
The last supper concept set me thinking. I prefer to contemplate the notion of desert island dishes or drinks.
So how about desert island drinks for the festive day? Balanced with some more practical suggestions?
Krug Grande Cuvée is an astonishingly great Champagne. Always consistent, it’s a blend of some quite old, sensational wines. It costs €220. My cheaper solution: Bollinger. For me, this has to be followed by white Burgundy. In an ideal world or on a theoretical desert island, this might well be the Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 1996, yours for about €600. Closer to earth, I’m proposing a lovely and much more modest wine that leaves change out of €40.
I think I’d stick with Burgundy, this being a game, after all. One of the most sought after producers is Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. I have tasted twice and it was very lovely, as well it might. I see Terroir’s in Donnybrook have the 2003 DRC Grands Echezeaux a shade under ten grand (a bottle!) Well, it won’t taste anything like it but I have a fab Gevrey-Chambertin for you that leaves change out of €50.
Onwards, to dessert, as distinct from desert. Here the no-brainer would be Chateau d’Yquem, the greatest dessert wine of them all, only drawback being price. The brilliant Greenacres in Wexford will sell you the 2003 for a not unreasonable €550 a bottle. However, they have an excellent 2004 Sauternes for €65.
And so to port and cheese and walnuts. I think I’d plump for Taylor’s 1955, a brilliant producer in a sublime vintage that is just ready now. Hard to find, though, and surprisingly good value at a shade under €400 across the water. My alternative, for a tenth of that price, doesn’t even need decanting!
Krug Grande Cuvée is an astonishingly good Champagne