DOUBLE SHETLAND COD WITH TOMATO RAGOUT

The family business Thule Ventus, which makes air-dried salt cod in the village of Cunningsburgh in the Shetlands, is one of the smallest companies I visited – but the cod makes up for it in flavour. The sustainably caught fish is cured, dried and packed in a shed with a stunning view of the coast.

Serves 2-3

For the tomato ragout l 100g (3½oz) salt cod, soaked

in cold water overnight l 100g (3½oz) dried piltock (also known as saithe or coley), soaked in cold water overnight l 5tbsp olive oil l 1 shallot, diced l 3 garlic cloves, crushed l 300g (10½oz) heritage

tomatoes, chopped l 50ml (2fl oz) dry white wine,

plus extra if necessary l A small bunch of basil, leaves

picked and torn l Sea salt and freshly ground

black pepper l 100g (3½oz) cooked

potatoes, diced l 100g (3½oz) cooked white beans (cannellini or haricot), drained l A small bunch of flat-leaf

parsley, chopped

For the fresh cod l 1tbsp olive oil l 25g (1oz) salted butter l 2-3 x 200g (7oz) fillets of cod

Drain the salt cod and piltock of their water and wash in fresh water. Put in a pan, cover with fresh cold water and bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then lift out onto a plate to cool. Use a fork to flake the fish, while removing the bones.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4. Heat 2tbsp of the olive oil in a pan. Gently fry the shallot and garlic for 2-3 minutes, until starting to soften. Stir the tomatoes in and cook for 2 minutes. Pour the wine in and add half the basil, then season. Stir together and cook for 8-10 minutes over a low heat until cooked down to make a stew. If the pan looks a little dry, add a splash more wine.

To cook the fresh cod, heat an ovenproof nonstick pan until hot and add the olive oil and half the butter. Once the butter is melted and foaming, fry the cod, skin-side down, for 2 minutes. Season lightly and when the skin has turned golden, flip over and transfer to the oven to cook for 3-4 minutes. Remove from the oven and add the remaining butter to the pan. Once melted, spoon over the cod.

To finish the stew, add the potatoes, white beans and flaked salted fish and stir gently together. Season with a pinch of salt and plenty of black pepper. Stir in the remaining 3tbsp of olive oil, the remaining basil and the parsley.

Divide the ragout among plates, place the cod on top and serve.