Good wines from local shops in trying times

Well, we certainly live in interesting times and perhaps this means we need good food and wine more than ever. Not as fuel, nor as a sedative, but to help us all keep a sense of proportion. And so I’ve selected a wine from each of the major supermarkets this week. Each punches higher than its price tag and offers a lot of versatility in terms of eating.

Most people, I realise, buy wine on the basis of liking a particular grape or a particular country, which is fine but certainly doesn’t lend itself to maximum enjoyment.

For example, you may be a Sauvignon Blanc fan, to the exclusion of all else. In which case, The Project will push lots of buttons for you. It’s simply brilliant with fresh goat’s cheese or fish with browned butter and capers.

But this week’s Viognier has less acidity and more obvious fruit, so it’s more at home with spice and the savoury umami of Chinese cooking where the Sauvignon would struggle. The French take on Albariño (or Alvarinho) lies between the two and I’ve found it works really well with slow-roasted belly pork.

This week’s Bordeaux is a classic and an old favourite of mine. I’ve known it since the 1980s when Alex Findlater discovered it. This is meaty territory. I’ve had it with roast beef and lamb, where it works even with horseradish and (mild) mint sauce, and it’s a perfect partner for proper, old-fashioned Irish stew.

As for the Faugères, there are times when we all need some southern sunshine, a whiff of the garrigue, a robust red that will marry well with steaming, comforting casseroles redolent of garlic and thyme. If you want subtlety, the Château Méaume is for you; if you want something bigger, brawnier and requiring less in the way of contemplation (should you be so inclined!) reach for the Faugères.

Yes, four French wines and one from the Cape this week.

Well, why not?

Each punches higher than its price tag