Take a dip in The Baths
Louise Roddon takes a catamaran tour of the British Virgin Islands – and can’t resist stopping at one of the world’s most prized beaches
Oh the Caribbean. Who can resist the palm-shaded beaches, top-notch snorkelling and pampering hotels? I’ve been lucky enough to explore it over many years, but my heart is faithful to the British Virgin Islands.
Why? Well, their volcanic verdant beauty is pure eyecandy – and although Hurricane Irma wreaked devastation in 2017, I have witnessed speedy renovations throughout many of its 60-odd islands. You could simply beachflop on one of the larger islands such as Jost Van Dyke, Tortola or Virgin Gorda, but then you’d miss the delights of the rest of the chain. My tip? Either consider a week-long sailing trip or plan day charters.
Sailing here under steady tradewinds, with safe anchorages guaranteed, is as close to heaven as you can get. Expensive, yes, but there are affordable options. Dream Yacht Charter, for example, offers fully crewed, ‘by-the-cabin’ catamaran holidays – and okay, you’re travelling with strangers, but on my trip, strong friendships were easily forged. If that’s not your thing, companies like Virgin Charter Yachts have day trips from Virgin Gorda or Tortola; or Aristo Charters provide private sailings.
The must-sees? Tortola, the chain’s largest, is somewhat overdeveloped, so head north or northeast. Wyndham Tortola offers serene accommodation fronting a perfect stretch of beach, alongside tropical gardens and the largest freshwater pool in the BVIs.
Powder-soft strips of beach are best found along Tortola’s north coast. Try buzzy Cane Garden Bay for fab bars or Brewers Bay, whose boulder-protected barrier reef offers great snorkelling. Pop in to Pusser’s Pub in Road Town for a tot of wood-distilled rum, or if you’re feeling energetic, opt for mountain-biking along Tortola’s mountainous spine, then up to the loftiest peak in the BVIs: the 1,716ft Sage Mountain. Set aside a few days on Virgin Gorda, which arguably is the prettiest island, and offers excellent hiking, fabulous restaurants and top-quality hotels. Step forward Rosewood Little Dix Bay, a Balinese-styled boutique hotel with dreamy bedrooms (many with private pools). For a less pricey stay, try Mango Bay Resort, whose beachside villas can accommodate up to four guests.
Not to be missed are The Baths – Virgin Gorda’s maze of giant granite boulders, where you can swish through natural whirlpools and acoustic caves. Divers will love the Rhone National Marine Park off Tortola, where you can swim through the wreck of the 19th Century mail ship RMS Rhone.
There’s also excellent diving and snorkelling at Treasure Point Sea Caves, near uninhabited Norman Island. This was supposedly the inspiration for Treasure Island, and it’s easy to imagine booty hidden among its somewhat spooky caves.
Louise Roddon was a guest of bvitourism.com Also see: dreamyacht charter.co.uk, wyndhamhotels.com, rosewoodhotels.com and mangobayresort.com