Basque yourself in art and culture
Four days exploring Spain’s north leave photojournalist Alison O’Hanlon pining to come back for more
MOBSERVE NEW VISITORS AS THEY WALK IN AND GASP ALOUD
ention Spain and most people think hot sandy beaches, sunburnt bellies and busy swimming pools. Well, the Basque Country probably has some of that stuff, but you won’t find it – you’ll be so dazzled by the region’s beauty, oldworld charm and cultural delights.
The main tourist cities in what proud Basques call Euskadi are Bilbao, San Sebastian and the capital of the Basque autonomous community, Vitoria-Gasteiz. The three old towns are steeped in culture, impressive architecture and exquisite cuisine. Exploring all three is a must, so it’s handy they’re just a scenic hour’s drive from one other.
Bilbao is a town that has transformed itself into a modern cultural centre. We stayed at the Gran Hotel Domine, which has unrivalled views of the Guggenheim Museum and the La Salve Bridge with its unmissable red arc.
The Guggenheim is a Mecca of contemporary art, and also one of modern architecture’s most iconic buildings. As a result it’s full of wide-eyed people whispering ‘wow’ every few minutes. With good reason. Shimmering titanium tiles lead up to the museum and right outside its doors you’re greeted by Maman, surrealist sculptor Louise Bourgeois’s imposing bronze-and-steel spider creation and modernist Jeff Koons’s larger-than-life sculptures Bouquet Of Tulips and the famous/ infamous Puppy, which was once the target of terrorist bombers. After you head inside, once you’ve composed yourself, take a moment to observe new visitors walk in and gasp aloud at the sheer vastness of the cathedral-like atrium, before reaching for their phone to capture the moment. Just like I did.
Once you’ve ticked the Guggenheim’s magnificent collections off your list, head across to the Casco Viejo, or old quarter, to explore charming, car-free streets lined with local shops and wecloming pintxos bars. Pintxos are small snacks signature to Spain’s Basque region. Elaborately crafted, they are eaten in just a few bites.
Some of Spain’s finest red wines are produced in Rioja Alavesa, whose nerve centre is on a hill in the tiny medieval walled town of Laguardia. The walled nature of the village has enabled the wine capital of Laguardia-Rioja Alavesa to provide a pedestrian town and exploring this little gem is an unforgettable Basque experience.
The hidden natural wonder that lies beneath Laguardia is just as memorable; a winding, subterranean labyrinth of more than 300 caves that are as out of this world as they are deep within it.
After that otherworldly experience, we were taken on a tour of the Carlos San Pedro traditional winery, where you again descend into the caves under the wine shop. The San Pedro family has been producing wine for more than 500 years and their winery produces just 40,000 bottles per year. After some tastings of their delicious produce, Carlos advises, ‘The best wine is the one you like the most’.
In stark contrast, we then visited Bodegas Baigorri, a modern winery in Samaniego, which has a very James Bond feel about it and incredible views across the vineyards. It is built seven stories into the ground, using gravity to aid in the wine making process. The onsite restaurant has fantastic tasting menus with Baigorri’s top wines.
If cider is your thing, the town of Astigarraga is where you need to be. Specifically, the Sagardoetxea Basque Cider Museum, where you can learn the history of and how to make the region’s signature tipple, production of which goes back long before wines. We had a go at making our own apple juice which was fun and taste-tested several ciders. At a cider house, we feasted on a traditional meal of tomatoes with garlic and onion, seafood omelette, cod and green peppers and txuleta – possibly the biggest piece of meat I’ve ever seen, charred on the outside, medium rare in the middle. While visiting a cider house, it’s tradition to pour from the barrel ‘txotx’ (pronounced choach). Everybody gathers around the barrels as one is opened and you catch the cider in the glass. This also aerates the cider.
The capital city of the region, Vitoria-Gasteiz has a gorgeous medieval quarter and is home to St Mary’s Cathedral Santa Maria, a Gothic masterpiece that started as a fortress. We took a tour starting in its subterranean structure, working our way up through the church to the top of the tower, from where you can see the entire town. Dinner that evening was at one of the city’s best known restaurants, El Portalón,
and it didn’t disappoint. A 15th-Century tavern built as a lodging for merchants, you’re transported back in time with its rustic rooms – and an entrance ‘large enough for a horse and cart’.
The following morning we spent a few hours exploring Chillida-leku. Located on the outskirts of San Sebastian, this is probably not the first place people think of to visit but as someone who had never seen Chillida’s art before, it was a moving experience. Forty pieces are dotted around 12 hectares, and at the heart of this outdoor museum is a 16th-Century farmhouse containing works from Chilladi’s earlier years. Our final stop was San Sebastian. With its shell-shaped La Concha beach and palatial hotels, this city is a favourite of the rich and famous. We stayed at the fourstar Lasala Plaza Hotel on the beach-front, ideal for exploring the Old Town, beach and harbour.
While many visitors come for the beaches, arts celebrations and fiestas, San Sebastian is serious about its food and drink. At night, the city’s old town bursts into life and is filled with the sound of glasses clinking and the aromas of the local pintxos; in the modern city, sidewalk cafes are all around.
On our way back to Bilbao, we made a quick stop in Getaria. A picturesque fishing village with an array of eateries and also home to the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum, solely dedicated to the designer and all things fashion.
After an incredible four days, I can’t wait to return.