The Irish Mail on Sunday

Obesity expert says lab-grown meat lacks any vital nutrients

- By Pieter Snepvanger­s WARNING: Professor Donal O’Shea news@mailonsund­ay.ie

A LEADING obesity expert has warned of the dangers of lab-grown meat that could be on menus and supermarke­t shelves across Ireland within two years.

Professor Donal O’Shea, the HSE’s national clinical lead for obesity, said lab-grown meat was taking ‘ultra-processed food to a new level’. And he warned: ‘No iteration in ultraproce­ssed anything has ever been healthy.’

Lab-grown meat, known as cultivated meat, is produced by taking the stem cells of an animal and growing them in massive stainless-steel tanks in a laboratory.

This is done by feeding the cells the same nutrients an animal

‘Something you have to greet with caution’

would normally consume on a farm. As more muscle fibres and connective tissues grow, the end product resembles beef mince.

Professor O’Shea told the Irish Mail on Sunday: ‘Every step towards processed and ultra-processed foods has historical­ly been associated with less healthful nutrition and this is creating a new food through multiple incubation­s and processes, so it is something you have to greet with caution.

‘What makes a food processed or ultra-processed is literally the number of processes it goes through.

‘And to go from being a cell, to a group of cells, to it being a cultured steak on a plate – before the steak even gets near being cooked

- you have an ultra-processed product.’

Lab-grown meat has come a long way since the first beef burger was created in 2013. Costing a whopping €250,000, it was unveiled at a news conference in London and streamed to thousands around the world. This summer,

the Food Safety Authority of Ireland (FSAI) said it was only a ‘matter of time’ before lab-grown meat enters the Irish market.

Dr Pat O’Mahony, FSAI chief specialist in food science and technology, said: ‘I don’t see it coming this year. It could be next year, but it’s only a matter of time.

‘I think it’s a lucrative market if you want to sell a food product.’ But Dr O’Mahony insisted artificial foods will go through a ‘long and arduous’ authorisat­ion process before they appear on restaurant menus and on supermarke­t shelves.

Animal welfare groups welcomed the developmen­t of labgrown meat which, unlike other substitute­s, is geneticall­y indistingu­ishable from traditiona­l meat.

However, Professor O’Shea said natural meat offers more to our diet than simply protein and fat, and said we should not be hasty replacing it.

He told the MoS: ‘We need to think about what it’s replacing. Natural meat has micronutri­ents, vitamins and minerals.

‘If you are culturing cells and growing them, it may just have the protein content of the meat without any of the vitamins, minerals or trace elements which are important in a healthy diet.

‘Meat is a combinatio­n of protein and fat and that is attractive to both taste and texture. Fat is an important part of your diet in moderation.’

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