SALMON EN CROUTE

Whether you call this salmon en croute or salmon Wellington, it makes a proper fancy dish for a special meal. Salmon, flaky puff pastry and a rich creamy sauce — what more could you want?

SERVES 4-6

320g pack of ready-rolled puff pastry

2 x 300-350g (10½-12oz) pieces of salmon fillet, skinned

Salt and black pepper

1 egg, beaten

FOR THE FILLING

1tbsp olive oil

15g (½oz) butter

½ fennel bulb, very finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

The zest of 1 lemon

100ml (3½fl oz) white wine

80-100g (3-3½oz) watercress, very finely chopped

2tsp ouzo or pastis (optional)

100g (3½oz) cream cheese

A squeeze of lemon juice

FOR THE DILL AND CAPER SAUCE

1tbsp butter

1 shallot, finely chopped

The zest of ½ a lemon

1tsp mustard powder

100ml (3½fl oz) chicken or fish stock

250ml (9fl oz) crème fraîche

A small bunch of dill, finely chopped

2tbsp capers

A squeeze of lemon juice

First make the filling. Heat the oil and butter in a small frying pan and add the fennel. Sauté over a gentle heat until translucent, then add the garlic and lemon zest. Stir for another minute, then pour in the white wine and season. Bring to the boil and let the white wine reduce by half, then add the watercress and remove the pan from the heat. Stir until the watercress has wilted, then set aside to cool. Add the ouzo or pastis, if using. Put the cream cheese in a bowl, season, then stir in the fennel and watercress mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Unroll the pastry and lightly run a rolling pin over it to increase its size by 2-3cm on each side. Place one piece of salmon in the centre and season. Spread the filling over the salmon, then season the remaining piece of salmon and place it on top of the filling. Fold the pastry over the salmon and seal the edges. Turn the pastry parcel over so the join is underneath and place it on a baking tray. Use a spoon to make a pattern of scales on top of the pastry, then brush with egg. Chill for at least half an hour in the fridge or 10 minutes in the freezer.

You can prepare the salmon ahead to this point and leave in the fridge for up to 24 hours.

When you are ready to cook, preheat the oven to 220°C/fan 200°C/gas 7. Bake the salmon for 15 minutes, then turn the heat down to 180°C/fan 160°C/gas 4 and cook for another 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, then leave to stand for a few minutes before serving.

Make the sauce. Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the shallot. Sauté until soft and translucent, then stir in the lemon zest and mustard powder. Whisk in the stock and bring to the boil, then simmer for a couple of minutes. Add the crème fraîche, then turn the heat down and heat it through gently. Stir in the dill and capers and season. Add a squeeze of lemon to cut through the richness. Slice the salmon into portions and serve with the sauce.