Our roam in ROUEN
John Sergeant and wife Mary mark their 55th years with a French twist
Many people, myself included, have been completely wrong about Rouen. I used to think it was a useful stop while rushing down to the south of France. All too often the irritating phrase ‘seen it, done it’ has been applied to what is actually one of the most interesting and enchanting French cities.
My first brief visit, many years ago, did not go well, mainly due to an absurd attempt by the French authorities to be more welcoming to foreigners. We were issued with tokens called ‘cheques-sourire’ (smile checks) to give to those who provided a friendly service, which would enter them into a prize draw. I can still remember the looks of horror after handing them to shop owners… I had never heard
‘merde’ pronounced so bitterly.
This time, all was forgiven. The smiles were genuine and, despite it being January when we visited, the weather was mild, almost all the restaurants were open and Rouen was settling down to its year-round status as a major tourist hub.
My wife, Mary, and I were in high spirits. We were celebrating our 55th wedding anniversary.
Our hotel, the four-star Hotel De Bourgtheroulde, like so much of the old town, can trace its origins back several hundred years. It was badly damaged by bombing in the Second World War but has been cleverly restored, with parts of the ancient building incorporated into the modern structure.
On our first night we found ourselves in the old market square, enjoying the impression of Rouen as it was in medieval times.
Narrow, twisting streets provide vistas of half-timbered houses.
We visited a traditional restaurant conveniently placed on a street named after William the
Conqueror. He died here, as King of England, 21 years after the Battle of Hastings.
The next day we walked to Rouen Cathedral – a Gothic masterpiece. Defying gravity, its soaring nave reminds us that it was French architects who first gave the world these tall, sharp, pointed windows showing off the light through painted glass.
Rouen also has another firm place in the history of art. When trains first started to run from Paris, artists quickly followed the River Seine to Rouen.
Claude Monet was one who made the biggest impact with his famous series depicting the West Door of the cathedral. One of these is on display in the Musee des Beaux Arts alongside a fine collection of Impressionist paintings. Afterwards, we enjoyed a walk along the Seine. Up river is Paris and Rouen is the last deep port before the capital.
Leaving the next day, we glanced back at our nearest bridge, and who is it named after? Oh yes, of course, William the Conqueror.