SIMONE TAKES IT TO THE NEXT LEVEL
Dublin born, London based designer Simone Rocha last week made her Parisian debut in the elevated world of French haute couture as the guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. Her debut couture collection received a rapturous reaction and expertly married her romantic yet feminist design handwriting with Gaultier’s signature saucy looks including lacing, corsetry, the striped marinière top, conical breasts and jaunty sailor hats.
Her designs have also been gaining visibility as they are increasingly chosen by celebrity fans including Billie Eilish, who wore a gothic Rocha gown to the 2023 Met Ball, Paul Mescal, who wore an embellished Rocha coat to the recent SAG awards, and Rosamund Pike, who wore a ravishing Rocha midi dress with roses sewn into its skirt to the BAFTA Tea Party. At the Gaultier show Kylie Jenner wore Rocha on the front row.
Rocha has always designed with a heightened romantic aesthetic and typically blends craft techniques (lace, crochet and hand knits) with tailoring and evening wear which display her interest in exploring dramatic volume and architectural silhouettes. Favourite motifs she returns to include ribbons, pearls, red flowers and cocoon shapes. She has collaborated previously with brands such as J Brand, Moncler and H&M, but to show on the haute couture schedule was a step into the premier league of fashion. While her Gaultier collection was perceived by some as an unusual marriage, she succeeded in infusing his brand with her own personal spin while also exploring his favourite design tropes.
Of the opportunity to work on a Jean Paul Gaultier couture collection, Rocha told UK Vogue: ‘To be a guest is a real gift, to identify with Mr Gaultier and his archive, and then to see what your spirit does in response is so interesting and exciting.’
She continued: ‘I wanted to make something that was attractive, provocative, playful, sensual, feminine, and strong. Haute couture is historical and romantic, and even some of my collections play on these qualities, so it’s about introducing modernity, reality; an almost scientific approach to this project, to push it forward for today.’
Standout looks in the show with a special Irish spin included a striking vintage Irish lace dress sprayed space age silver and a strapless crocheted dress with a pannier skirt. A flame red dress with horned breasts also drew admiration as well as the final bridal look which comprised a floor length veil and a sweeping A-line lace gown. The palette embraced nude, white and black, apart from red accessories and that red dress. Throughout Rocha played with volume, transparency, embellishment and the contrast between concealed and exposed flesh with an assurance that belied her youth. The entire show was a stunning tour de force for Rocha and confirmed the designer as possessing both the skill and imagination to modernise traditional haute couture for a younger generation.
Since her debut in 2010, Rocha has enjoyed accolades including the Harper’s Bazaar Designer of Year Award (2016) as well as Fashion Awards for Emerging Talent, Ready-to-Wear (2013), The New Establishment Award (2014) and British Womenswear Designer Award (2016). She also received the Fashion Award for Independent British Brand in 2021. It seems post Paris, that even greater success awaits Simone as the world is literally her pearl.