How Lanzarote can give you that tropical fix… for under €70 return
Escape the chill with a short-haul swap (that has ALL the perks!)
Tropical heat usually requires deep pockets, and neither my boyfriend nor I had the time off nor the cash for long-haul. But could we conjure the spirit of Bali or Tulum with a budget return flight to Lanzarote?
Coming in to land, I wasn’t convinced we could. A thick layer of cloud hung over the rather desolatelooking island. There was a nip in the air – though the 18C temperature was certainly an improvement on 4C at home.
But our hotel, Paradisus, was fabulous. The landmark 1977 building, designed by Spanish architect Fernando Higueras as Lanzarote’s first five-star hotel, had been polished up for its relaunch as a Melia allinclusive.
A layer-cake of white concrete balconies was surrounded by palms and a lagoon pool, while the scented foyer was wrapped around a huge courtyard garden of vines, palms and cacti, with water trickling over black volcanic rock.
Thankfully, on day two, the sun made an appearance, bathing the pool in a sultry 22C. We toasted with bottles of sunscreen and all-inclusive beers, luxuriating in the adults-only tranquillity.
With a Reserve-level room we had entry to two sights thrown in, along with private transfers.
We started at Jameos del Agua, a botanical garden set around an enormous lava tube, where we saw the luminous blind crabs living in its waters. Next was Jardin de Cactus, a botanical garden in an old landfill crater that is devoted to all things spiky. We climbed a windmill at one end, learning about artist Cesar Manrique (his murals and garden designs were on show at our hotel).
Lanzarote’s landscapes are unearthly, with smooth, sculpted mountains and black lunar-like terrain skirting out to the sea.
Parts feel like driving through Arizona or Nevada.
A Paradisus staffer told us that it cost far less to hire a car than take multiple taxis, so we rented a tiny electric number for about €42 a day. Driving through La Geria wine region is a must, where
grey craters pock the hillsides, sheltering low grapevines.
Los Charcones’ natural pools were an adventure, as we clambered down the rocks to reach tranquil natural pools that were ideal for swimming in. And Papagayo beach was down a bumpy dirt track, where our queasiness was cured by golden sands and warm waters.
We rewarded our intrepid mornings with chilled afternoons. Sunset wine in our hot tub was a ritual, as was lunch at Piscina pool bar, working our way through the menu: prawn aguachile, tuna tataki, pork katsu sandwiches.
Was it flawless sunshine? No. But when it wasn’t blazing we signed up for pilates or pampering at the health spa, or hopped in the car. We got more than we bargained for with our short-haul swap. Not just sun, but a health retreat and an unexpected splash of adventure to boot.
Dublin to Lanzarote from €66 return (ryanair. com). Doubles at Paradisus from €386 per night (melia.com). See hellocanaryislands.com