Make the summer BERRY NICE
Nothing says sunshine like strawberries and now is the perfect time to start growing them
It might seem a long way away, given the unexpected snow last week, but summer is coming and that means we’ll be buying strawberries. But how’s about growing your own crop from scratch? Early spring is the perfect time to think ahead to warm season desserts by snapping up some bare rooted plants known as ‘runners’, usually sold in bundles of 5-10 or more. Once they are mature, an individual plant will deliver in the region of 150-400 berries… enough for at least 18 Wimbledon-sized servings.
As they are tough as old boots, strawberry runners can be planted immediately, either in the ground (as long as the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged) or set in containers. They’ll soon develop a vigorous root system and form a 10-15in high mound of foliage that will carry masses of fruit at some point between June and September, depending on the variety.
They’re closely associated with many of our favourite desserts and summer traditions, and culinary strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) were created by botanists in France back in the late 18th century, who crossed a species from North America (Fragaria virginiana) with another from Chile (Fragaria chiloensis).
Prior to its introduction, we had to content ourselves with the highly aromatic, but much smaller fruit of the woodland strawberry (Fragaria vesca), a plant that can be found growing wild in woods, grass and scrubland.
Since the 19th century, breeding work on Fragaria x ananassa has provided us with nearly 100 named varieties. Four of them make up the 38.4 tons of strawberries eaten annually at Wimbledon, were the servings of the summer fruit are as talked about as the tennis. Most visitors will tuck into ‘Elsanta’, ‘Malling Centenary’ and ‘Sonata’, while those in the royal box get to dine on ‘Driscoll’s Jubilee’, a variety introduced in 2002. The main reason for growing strawberries is obviously to have plenty of tasty fruit to pick, but some varieties are equipped with extra attributes. For example, unlike most other strawberries that have white flowers, ‘Viva Rosa’ boasts striking pink blooms and ‘Ruby Ann’ has red flowers. Fragaria x ananassa ‘Variegata’ has two-tone, green and cream leaves.
All named varieties are divided into two groups based on when the berries appear. Summer-fruiting ones tend to have a single heavy flush of fruit at some point from late May to the end of August.
The second group are known as everbearers. These produce their first berries in June and then continue to crop on and off lightly into autumn.
To ensure strawberry plants produce a bumper crop, give them a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil. Either dot plants in gaps at the front of beds and borders or establish a dedicated strawberry patch by spacing plants 18in apart with 3ft between rows. Prior to planting, improve the ground by digging in some garden compost, leafmould or well-rotted manure.
Runners need planting in holes that are large enough to accommodate the roots, making sure the base of the crown is level with the surface — set pot-grown strawberries in holes that are twice the diameter of the container and the same depth. After planting, scatter some general fertiliser granules around plants to get them off to a flying start.
Another option is to raise strawberries in containers, such as growing bags, hanging baskets, troughs and pots (one plant in a 5-litre pot filled with ready to use multi-purpose compost with added John Innes is ideal). It’s best to avoid terracotta strawberry planters — there’s very little room for plants to develop and compost dries out quickly due to the porosity of the container. The key to growing strawberries is watering. Plants need their thirst slaking regularly to prevent
a check to growth, especially during dry, sunny periods. Always apply directly to the base of plants and not from above using a sprinkler — an overly damp crown (the part where shoots join the roots) or fruit can lead to an outbreak of grey mould and other fungal problems.
Feeding plants will ensure a bumper crop of fat, juicy berries. Get things off to a flying start after planting by scattering Fish, Blood & Bone or another all-purpose fertiliser around plants. As soon as the first flowers appear and until the last of fruit has been picked, feed every couple of weeks with a liquid fertiliser that’s
high in potash. Once harvesting is over, give plants some attention. Cut back tatty foliage to leave a tuft of undamaged growth at the centre and then feed with a general fertiliser. Feel free to give plants another light trim in late winter, removing any dead or damaged leaves.
Sadly, strawberry plants aren’t particularly long-lived, and you will need to replace them eventually.
If you look after them well, summer fruiters should provide you with good crops of fruit for up to four years before yields start to drop off, while everbearing types burn out much sooner due to being more productive – expect to replace plants every couple of years.