Barry’s Bakery leaves behind proud legacy

SERVING FINE FAYRE FOR OVER NINE DECADES, BARRY’S BAKERY IS TO CLOSE ITS DOORS. STEPHEN FERNANE REFLECTS ON SAD NEWS FOR TRALEE

‘WHEN life in little places dies, greater places share the loss’ is how poet Brendan Kennelly once described the hardship of change within a tightly knit community. It’s hard not to be reminded of this saying following the sad news that Barry’s Bakery has closed after 92 years in business with the loss of 20 jobs. As news broke on Friday evening it shocked an entire county and nowhere was its loss more keenly felt than in Rock Street where the bakery has functioned as part of everyday life for decades.

In a short statement, management said it was with deep regret that it had to close, citing falling sales as the reason. It also thanked the hardworking staff, family, suppliers and many loyal customers. The adjoing shop will remain open for business.

Barry’s Bakery was born out of the flames of Civil War in 1922 when Paddy Barry first set his heart on owning a bakery in Blennerville. But before it had the chance to fan the flames of its ovens, Free State soldiers landed in Fenit and took over the surrounding area, including Paddy’s premises.

Blennerville’s loss would prove Rock Street’s gain and the first loaf of Barry’s bread was produced in the Rock on December 31, 1924. Paddy was also a founding member of the Austin Stacks GAA Club – an association the Barry family proudly sustained throughout the history of the business.

In 1929 Paddy purchased the bakery’s current site – which was originally a tannery where James Connelly recruited men in 1915. The business underwent many changes, most notably during World War II when reductions in flour led to the famous ‘black bread’. It was at this point that Sarah Barry – known for her popular soda bread - began working full-time in the bakery and as war ended and flour quality improved, so did the business.

In 1948, Paddy died leaving Sarah to run the business and care for a large family. Her daughters Peggy and Bebe helped with the business and after Sarah’s passing in 1954 her son Jimmy – aged just 23 – took on the bakery and set it on course for future growth when he replaced the horse drawn vans with electric vans.

In 1957 a fire destroyed the business, but rising phoenix-like from the ashes it reopened again in June 1958, thanks to the assistance of McCowens who let the Barry’s use their ovens until renovations were completed. Under the late Jimmy Barry’s guidance, the bakery went from strength-to-strength and in 1979 Jimmy purchased more land at the rear of the existing site which increased production. Barry’s Bakery extended to a third generation when siblings Paddy, David and Mary maintained the family tradition until finally forced to close its doors almost a century after producing its first batch loaf.

On a personal note, I grew up just across the street from the bakery and the smell of fresh bread and the sound of its little fleet of electric vans leaving the yard every morning is a special memory for many people.

Barry’s Bakery leaves behind a legacy that every business aspires to but only a few ever get to achieve – that of a close connection with the community it serves. For the people of Kerry and Rock Street, Barry’s Bakery was more than just a place of business: it was part of local history and will be sorely missed by all.

Barry’s Bakery which closed last week

The Late Jimmy Barry.