The Kerryman (South Kerry Edition)
CAIRO TO CAPE TOWN ON A BIKE
IT’S TWO YEARS SINCE BAILE AN FHEIRTÉARAIGH’S TOMÁS MAC AN TSAOIR TOOK TO HIS BIKE AND CYCLED THE WIDTH OF AMERICA FOR #LIVELIFE. NOW, HE’S OFF TO TAKE ON AFRICA. BUT TADHG EVANS ASKS – WHY RISK IT?
I PULLED OUT A WORLD MAP, IT WASASIF AFRICA ASKED, ‘HAVE YOU GOT THE BALLS TO CYCLE ME’?
THERE are hard-earned pints of Guinness – and then there’s the pint Tomás Mac an tSaoir nursed in Gainesville, Florida, two winters ago.
It brought an end to a 7000-kilometre cycle spanning two months, the width of the United States, and more moments of note than most experience in a lifetime. But by the time he got in touch with The Kerryman, hours later, a thirst for greater things was already taking shape.
Less than two years on, he’s sitting in Green Street’s ‘Bean in Dingle Café’ whilst sipping on a cappuccino, thinking ahead to this Friday – the day he’ll fly to Cairo via Istanbul to take on a solo cycle with no definite end date.
“All I know is that I’ ll finish in Cape Town, hopefully around St Patrick’s Day,” he says. “That’d be class. But it could be April, May – I don’t know, really.”
If that sounds flippant, it’s at odds with his perspective on the challenge.
All going well, next spring he’ll conquer a route that’s roughly twice as long as the one he overcame in the States, with 12 African nations added to an already spectacular cycling résumé. Up until two days ago, it would have been true to say the overriding emotion he felt was excitement. Since then, there have been tearful goodbyes and the odd shred of anxiety. The length of the journey is one thing; that he’ll cycle alone through some of the most dangerous nations on earth, another entirel.
“Around 80, 85 per cent of people are against this,” he says, leaning against the adjacent windowsill. “But people say countries are dangerous – but it’s really that there are dangerous regions in those countries. The route I’ve planned is probably the safest you could plan in the circumstances.
“For example, Sudan has probably got the worst reputation of any of the countries on my list – but the way it’s planned, it’ll probably end up being the safest country I’ll travel through. Apparently they’re among the most welcoming, hospitable people you’ll meet, where I’m travelling through, and I’m looking forward to that.
“Now, the country I’m most worried about is Ethiopia, because I’ve heard kids will throw stones and run at cyclists all day long; it’s like their national sport! But, look, there are parts of towns and cities in Ireland you wouldn’t be advised to cycle through either, aren’t there?
“There’s a place on the border between Ethiopia and Kenya where there’s been open conflict recently and, yeah, I’m worried about that, of course I am. But I’ve been in touch regularly with the Department of Foreign Affairs, and they’ve me up to speed on keeping in touch with them throughout so they can let me know of any no-go areas, where to stay, that kind of thing – and I’ll be meeting them along the way, too.”
Physically, he feels as tuned up as ever, helped in part by a difficult recent cycle from Belfast to Kerry. The thought of toiling in the infamous African heat is similarly low on the 24-year-old’s hefty list of concerns; while in the States, he became well-acquainted with 40-degree days.
But with the majority of friends and families holding at least some reservations about what Tomás will attempt alone, why he’s even allowed himself to indulge the thought of an African tour is a question in itself.
It’s curious to listen to someone express a deep love of Corca Dhuibhne one minute, before turning around and saying a continent he’s never visited is in his blood, as he puts it himself.
It was old friend who put the idea to Tomás first day – and it would seem the very things that would put most of us running from such a challenge were what enticed the Baile an Fheirtéaraigh man.
“It’s easily the most difficult continent to cycle,” he says, “the top tier, the holy grail of cycling tours.
“But once I pulled out a world map, it was as if Africa came out, punched me in the face and said, ‘Have you got the balls to cycle me?’ I’m stubborn, I’m determined, and once the idea was in my head, I was glued.
“I googled it, and people had close calls – but they got through it, and they loved it. As for doing it alone, at least if something happens me, it only happens to me. Whereas if there were another person – would I want that on my conscience later?”
But, perhaps, the greatest influence of all on his decision to leave Ireland; his family; and his girlfriend, Éadaoin, for anything up to seven months wasn’t the challenge, the continent he describes as his holy grail. As was the case two years ago, he’ ll raise funds for the late Donal Walsh’s #LiveLife charity and spread its message beyond this island – and past experiences of bringing #LiveLife to new places have steeled that conviction.
“Like so many people, I heard Donal speaking on the Saturday night show with Brendan O’Connor. He was only 16 at the time, suffering with cancer, and I remember thinking he spoke like he was 60 or 70,” Tomás says. “I think suicide and mental health are kind of taboo subjects in this country, but it’s getting better. And I wanted to bring that message elsewhere because it’s a problem everywhere; that’s what this is about. If I can inspire one person in Africa, it’ll be worth it.
“I remember when I was in Louisiana two years, it was illegal to cycle across the Mississippi
Bridge, and a truck driver picked me up. When I told him what I was cycling for, he opened up about the breakdown of his marriage and the difficulty he was having in seeing his children. He was contemplating taking his own life.
“We exchanged contact details, and he got back to me a time later to tell me he’d sorted out his issues and was in a much better place, and he referred back to the conversation we’d had.
“That’s what it’s all about, that’s the whole thing. That was one chat in a seven-week trip – and it was enough to make it worthwhile.”
To donate to the cause, visit www.idonate.ie/fundraiser/11368911_cycling-egyptsouth-africa-12-000km.html.